We talk «Pancake week» , and mean «pancakes.»
This tradition is quite old, but not always with us.
Olga Syutkina, one of the best specialists in Russian cuisine, tells what real Russian pancakes are and shares the recipe.
Known to all «Domostroy» (mid-XVI century) completely dispensed with «pancake«Associations:»And on Maslenitsa they serve to the table: brushwood, nuts, … curd mixture, boiled milt, dry fat cottage cheese«.
In some places the lack of pancakes on Maslenitsa was the rule even at the beginning of the XIX century. «Formerly, almost in every home, who only had a fortune, they baked brushwood on the carnival, a kind of cake«, — wrote in 1842, the famous Russian cook Ekaterina Avdeeva.
And there is a simple explanation.
The fact is that initially in Russia, as in many other countries of the world, the New Year was a spring holiday. According to ancient tradition, it has long been celebrated in early March.
So in Russia it lasted until the end of the 15th century, when in 1492 the Grand Duke Ivan III, grandfather of Ivan the Terrible, approved the decision of the Church Council on the transfer of the New Year to September 1.
At the same time, the church authorities established their own instead of the pagan holiday, specially shifting the boundaries of Great Lent for this.
Even the term itself «Pancake week« It appears only in the XVI century. The period of the ancient Slavic holiday was reduced to seven days.
And he was moved to the first week of a lightweight fast, which in the church calendar was called “cheese» or «meatloot, Preceding the time of Great Lent.
Church, on the one hand, «defeated pagan superstitions«. On the other hand, she preserved the folk tradition of setting abundant tables with all kinds of food.
Eat a large amount of various dairy foods: sour cream, cream, cottage cheese, butter, milk, as well as eggs, fish, various cereals, cakes, pancakes — all that fit into the regulations.meatloot«.
That is, it was in Russia and Pancake week, were and pancakes.
But together they did not converge until the XVI-XVII centuries.
But what were those pancakes?
Let’s just say: real Russian pancakes made of buckwheat flour and called red.
Milk pancakes were made from wheat flour with milk and eggs added. Notice, pancakes are exactly baked, not roasted.
The explanation for this is quite simple: they have long been prepared in the oven.
Have you heard about Aladi? Yes, it is Aladi, as the old pancakes were used to call them today.
They were prepared from flour, eggs, cow (baked) butter, and on fasting days they were baked without milk and eggs, flavored with peanut butter. Served with molasses, honey and sugar. Large Aladyas were called “mandative«Because they were worn by clerical people at the commemoration.
The boiler completely forgotten now differed from aladium in that there were fewer eggs in it, and it was fed with molasses.
As you can see, a lot has changed over the past century.
However, even today, tastes are gradually changing.
And the old tradition adapts to the modern understanding of tasty and healthy food.
Here is the recipe, where the trendy whole-grain flour is perfectly combined with the usual gingerbread flavor.
What you need:
- 180g whole grain flour
- 50 g of ordinary flour
- 2 tbsp. of milk
- 80 g butter
- 70 g brown sugar
- 1.5 tsp. baking powder
- ½ tsp salt
- ½ tsp, ground cinnamon
- 1/2 tsp ground ginger
- 1/4 tsp, ground cloves
- 1/4 tsp nutmeg
- 1 tsp orange peel
- 1 egg
- vanilla extract
- cooking oil for frying pan
What to do:
Melt 3 tbsp. l butter.
Mix butter, milk, yolk and vanilla extract.
In a large bowl, mix whole grain flour, plain flour, sugar, salt, cinnamon, ginger, cloves, nutmeg, and orange zest. In a few receptions pour milk and whisk.
Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and set aside for 3 hours.
Before baking, beat the protein and put it into the dough. At the same time add baking powder.
Stir and bake in a frying pan heated with vegetable oil on medium heat for 2 minutes on each side.
Pancakes stacked, each greased with melted butter.
Serve with jam, honey, condensed milk, maple syrup.
“The kitchen of my love” was the name of my first book. Since then, in addition to traditional gastronomy, my husband and I have taken up the history of Russian cuisine, have written a new book — “Uninvented history of Russian cuisine”. She is about the past of our gastronomy, about how it arose and developed.
About the people who created it. Now comes the continuation of this work — already about the Soviet period.
Together with readers, we are trying to figure out whether the Soviet cuisine was a logical stage in the development of the great Russian cuisine or was an accidental zigzag of history.
Here I will try to tell you about how sometimes a wonderfully story comes to our today’s world, to our kitchens and tables.