Where to eat in St. Petersburg?
And what is special treat in this city?
To answer these questions, we interviewed about fifty people who live in the northern capital, often go to interesting places and prepare themselves.
Turned out informal culinary guide, which tells about local gastronomic specialties and about favorite places of modern St. Petersburg people.
We will not write about the top institutions of Peter — Duo, Tartarbar, Duo Asia, «Coco», «Cork», Hamlet and Jacks and other fashion projects.
Our business is to show unobvious interesting places.
Fish with bubbles and fish with the smell of cucumber
What is modern Petersburg cuisine and is there any?
Let us turn to the history of the city and remember that from the very beginning a huge number of foreigners took part in its construction and development, and it was their gastronomic tastes and habits that left an imprint on the formation of local cuisine.
And from some point on, Petersburg cuisine began to be a fusion of traditional Russian dishes with German, Swedish, Dutch and French recipes.
One of the true Petersburg dishes is considered starlet in champagne — mix of Russian product and French habits.
There is also a purely Russian symbolic dish — pickle pickle, a thing, frankly, an amateur. At this story, perhaps, ends.
But modern St. Petersburg gastronomic phenomena can be called puffy and smelt fish.
Puffs — This is part of the history and culture of the city, all foreigners undergo an initiation ceremony in a cafe on Bolshaya Konyushennaya Street, and God forbid them to show at least a bit of skepticism, having stood in a huge queue and finally tried it on.
Arms laid to admire and enjoy, forgetting about any principles of healthy eating. What is important — donuts from other institutions are fakes and can not be considered real St. Petersburg.
And most importantly, in Moscow and other cities, donuts can call anything like buns, fritters, but in St. Petersburg donuts are donuts.
Another pride — smelt — this is our most real, Leningrad-Petersburg, beloved from early childhood and dear. In St. Petersburg, spring is determined by smell — it is the fresh, some cucumber-sea smell of smelt sold on street stands officially symbolizes the absolute end of winter. The smelt season is short — only from April to the end of May, and only one and a half thousand tons are available: this is the average amount of official fishing for the Neva fish.
There are many recipes for making smelt, but the best one is the classic one: roll in flour and fry, and the tail should not be cut off, so that it fries until the crunch.
Eat this smelt like watermelon — in the sense of complete satiety.
Therefore, some are skeptical about smelt in restaurants: there and hands are uncomfortable, and the portions are not at home.
Street food as a new trend
And now, actually, to the food preferences of the residents of St. Petersburg and to the institutions that reflect these habits. As in Moscow, the most important trend of recent years, which continues to grow, is the emergence of high-quality informal casual food establishments.
Street food confidently gaining ground by offering a fast, tasty and budget alternative to traditional restaurants.
Representatives of all social strata spend the evenings for burgers, shaverma and falafel — it is this phenomenon that the owners of expensive restaurants have faced in the past two years — luxury restaurants are competing not only with other high-check-in establishments, but also with fashionable burger around the corner.
We highly recommend visiting these places. Pita’s — a network with points on Gorokhovaya, Karpovka Embankment, on Ligovsky Prospekt and on Nevsky near the Mayakovskaya metro station.
Their motto is Do what you love.
We do shawerma (Do what you love.
We make shaverma), in the menu, in addition to eight kinds of excellent shaverma, there is falafel, burritos, salads, soups and desserts — all serious jazmera, it is prepared instantly, everything can be taken with you.
The interior is hipster, the music is loud, in general, ideal for an energetic snack on the run.
On Gorokhovaya, 13, works «Society of clean plates» — a small space with large windows and a varied menu: from huge salads to burgers and steaks, fine hummus, soups and desserts.
The place is fashionable and youth, there is a DJ on Fridays and Saturdays, almost always a lot of people and it is better to book a table a bit in advance.
Cafe "clean plates society"
On the embankment of the channel Griboyedov, 31, there is a bar-hairdresser’s favorite by many ”«Bang Bang — here is the author’s menu of burgers, which is regularly updated: a burger with foie gras and ginger jam, with salmon on a black roll with cuttlefish ink, vegetarian — with paneer, nori and Adygei cheese or mozzarella, eggplant and pesto.
And here there really is a hairdresser’s office for three chairs. Very comfortable: ate — hair cut.
Or vice versa.
A restaurant «Heat» hidden in the courtyard of one of the houses on Bolshaya Morskaya Street, and here is a very special world. In summer, most of the courtyard turns into an open terrace of the restaurant — however, the guests continue to sit outside until the weather gives at least some opportunity.
Thick rugs add comfort and prolong the summer regime. The restaurant itself is located in a semi-basement and is divided into several halls, there are a lot of books and all sorts of amusing things in the interior, the menu is traditional meat, fish, soups, salads, but the main thing here is the atmosphere: it is extremely comfortable and you don’t want to leave.
Be sure to book a table in advance, because it is chock on any day of the week.
At the intersection of Grazhdanskaya Street and Voznesensky Avenue (27 Grazhdanskaya Street) there is a stylish cafe of French cuisine — bistro Julia Child, named after an American chef and TV star of the 60s. In the menu — French cuisine in a modern interpretation: bread soup with onions, lentil soup, duck riet with pickled apples, mustard gravy rabbit, cauliflower with blue cheese.
Prices are more than affordable.
For pizza we go to «22 cm» on Zhukovsky, 45, or on Bolshaya Konyushennaya. Here she is cooked in front of the guests in a huge oven, the menu has 15 kinds of delicious toppings, and it is so beautiful that any pretty girl will easily eat at least two.
Another place with great pizza — Camorra Pizza e Birra in Kovno lane near the metro station «Chernyshevskaya». The menu includes six types of pizza with fillings such as goat cheese and pumpkin, beef and baked peppers, anchovies and olives.
There is also a huge selection of all sorts of beer, which will please not only the general public, but also real connoisseurs of craft.
For example, there is a unique line of bottled beer from the Danish brewery Amager, dedicated to the seven deadly sins.
On Nekrasov, 26, works wonderful humus «Mamele» — one of the most kosher places in the Northern capital, which in this case does not close on Shabbat.
Here come first of all for hummus, which here plays the role of a main course and is served with pita and various toppings.
In the bar — wine from the shop at the Grand Choral Synagogue and a wide selection of original tinctures.
Connoisseurs recommend to lovers of Georgian cuisine «Sakartvelo» on Vasilyevsky Island (12th line, 13). The restaurant is famous for authenticity and atmosphere, for which the charismatic hostess is responsible, who sometimes sings for the guests under the piano in the evenings.
The menu includes classic Georgian dishes in some author’s interpretation, khachapuri and delicious kebabs.
On Blagodatnaya Street, 16, another Georgian restaurant “Kobuleti” is located in a semi-basement, which is highly praised by Georgians — and this is a valuable recommendation!
On Zhukovsky, 13, worth a visit cafe-bar 2Taco & Co — Mexican institution with a large selection of tacos, which also change almost every day.
Of course, there are several types of guacamole, fajitas and quesadillas — everything goes as an excellent appetizer to tequila, of which there are at least eight species.
For those who love more sharply, there is a restaurant on Vasilyevsky Island (Nakhimov, 20) «Sichuan» with authentic menu of Chinese dishes. The owner of the restaurant is a Chinese businessman, whose goal was to present the real cuisine of the most delicious province of China. The interior has no dragons and decorative fountains — simple furniture, wooden screens, heavy chopsticks.
The place is a little advertised, but recommended by experts!
And on Bolshaya Morskaya Street, 35, recently opened Made in China — an institution in classic interiors with stucco and display windows (the historical building of the profitable house of the insurance company «Russia»). The menu is based on the author’s interpretation of Asian dishes.
Three types of tataki, dim sum, spring rolls, steamed buns with beef cheek or pork stew, and a selection of main courses.
Next to St. Isaac’s Square, in Grivtsova Alley, 2, there is a wonderful restaurant Oh! Mumbai!
with an authentic Indian menu, an excellent choice of vegetarian options and traditional delicacies.
Several types of curry and biriani, salads, soups, tandoor dishes — the chef from New Delhi masterfully adapts Indian classics for European taste, without losing its authenticity.
Here are some institutions specifically for followers of healthy lifestyles, vegetarianism or raw food.
On Pestelya, 7, since 2007, operates a cafe «Botany», founded by enthusiasts when veganism has not yet become a trend. All employees of the cafe are ideological vegetarians, and the cuisine is based on the principles of ayurveda. On Gorokhovaya Street, 36, waiting for you «Glad & Co — A vegetarian cafe with a slight Indian accent.
You can eat inside, or you can order directly from the street in the window falafel, fishroll or vegetarian shavarma with your favorite sauce.
For sweet — about sweet
At the beginning of the 19th century, the «candy stalls», where sweets were taken away, were replaced by pastry shops. In the pastry shops served coffee, chocolate, ice cream, fruit.
The most popular was the institution of K. Lareda at the beginning of Nevsky, thanks to the most delicious biscuits and ice cream.
Here they loved to feast on Griboedov, Zhukovsky, Turgenev: creativity requires sweet. Confectionery Wolf and Beranzhe on the corner of Nevsky and Moika was famous for a variety of sweet delicacies, made in the form of human figures, famous buildings, portraits of famous people.
The Abrikosov confectionery on Nevsky, 40, still exists now — it was revived under the same name in 2002.
Today we go for sweets in the candy store ««Tasty stuff on Petrogradskaya (16 Bolshoy Prospekt).
Here — 40 types of handmade ice cream with the most crazy flavors — chanterelles, broccoli, olives and Borodino bread, maple syrup and nuts.
Ice cream is made from natural ingredients of the highest quality.
Gelateria works on Liteyny Prospect, 51 Popio — a small institution where you can taste about 15 types of sweet delicacy: from classic ones with strawberries, raspberries, kiwi, cookies, to more interesting ones with nuts and salt, and passionate and orange candied fruits.
On the Haymarket open mediaies «Eat Fresh», here they serve apple and spinach smoothies, banana with ginger and walnuts, watermelon, blueberries, lingonberries, and fresh juices.
And, finally, for many years (since 1978) the most delicious cakes and desserts in our city — in the pastry shop «Troika» on Zagorodny Avenue.
Cream buns, “Anthill” cake, “Troika” rolls with cottage cheese filling, eclairs, honey cake — traditional, authentic and uncompromisingly tasty.