Gastronom.ru launches a project called «Bread».
Our goal is to understand what kind of bread we eat, why in most cases it is of dubious quality, where to get good bread, how to bake bread at home and in general, whether we need bread.
With whom from Muscovites you will not start a conversation about food, sooner or later it will come down to the fact that bread has become — uh-uh — not so good. Those who are older remember the Soviet regime, those who are younger do not understand what they mean. Bread?
Well this is bad, tasteless and in general, Finnish crackers are better.
The rumors circulating among the people, which, despite their absolutely fantastic nature (or perhaps because of it), are not excited, no one seeks to refute.
It is said that now bread is worse than it was under the Soviet regime, because then it was all made of Canadian flour, and now it was made of Russian flour.
They say that bread in Moscow is not made from flour at all, but from some complex mixtures, in which flour is less than half, and the rest is reagents and salts of very heavy metals.
They say that flour for bread is now taken from former stocks in case of war, and that this flour is at least forty years old, and she spent these forty years in a deep freeze. They say that all the flour produced in Russia is immediately sold abroad, but instead they supply us with foreign flour, and that, of course, is a hundred times worse.
It is said that in Russia there is not a single grain elevator that is not infected with any fungus.
In general, beauty.
However, it makes you wonder.
In the years of the USSR, Moscow was supplied with bread by the system of bread-baking plants, and it was controlled very seriously. Muscovite could experience difficulties with shoes, clothing, books, televisions, sausage, but with the bread in any case. When the cooperatives were allowed, the first thing they came up with was jeans.
And second, yes, bread.
The situation developed quickly and predictably: in the early 1990s, it was customary in the capital’s bakeries to ask “factory bread?”, In case of a negative answer, go to another bakery.
At the beginning of the new century, everything became even sadder.
Bakeries as such almost disappeared, and bread began to be sold in supermarkets, many of which acquired their own bakeries.
Then it seemed that this passion was progressive, until the bread of traditional, factory quality disappeared as a species.
Perhaps, the situation with bread in the capital was never worse (except during the war) — an indescribably wadded, irregular-shaped loaves could only be eaten for a couple of hours after purchase, and then they lost all sorts of signs of taste.
It was then that the first bakeries of the category “not for everyone” appeared, vividly illustrating the craving of the residents of Moscow towards the whole elite. However, the bread they really did — and they do — is pretty good. Many of these bakeries work with imported semi-finished products, just baking them in their ovens.
In others, production is controlled by foreign experts — they train the staff, build the process and go home, and then from time to time run into checks.
The problem is that Western influence lasts a maximum of three months, and then everything moves to a rather dreary level.
Experts from the Russian province argue that the picture is just the opposite.
In Soviet times, the bread was disgusting, and now — it can not be better. How it happened is hard to say.
Obviously, only one thing: the best types of bread, which can be bought in Moscow retail chains, are baked outside of Moscow, and often very far away.
In different countries, bread is treated with varying degrees of seriousness. France serves as the absolute standard, and especially Paris, where each district is proud of its bakers. Contests are held all the time, from the Best Baguette of Paris to the Best Baker of France.
Excellent bread baked in Italy.
There he is in every city and even village — his own, unlike anyone else (however, like the rest of the food).
In the past 15 years, the United States is experiencing a real bread revolution.
Cotton wads are a thing of the past (or, perhaps, immigrated somewhere on this side of the ocean).
Things have reached the point that many French specialists are moving to America — because of the much more serious demand and the much greater freedom of experiments allowed by American law.
The eastern tradition of bread consumption is very different from the western one. For example, in Istanbul, Tashkent or Baku it is not known what “yesterday’s bread” is, it is always — just bought and just baked. It is not surprising that they eat it a lot and with great appetite.
So it turns out — some people love and respect good bread, others cook it with great skill, and absolutely everyone understands the question.
If we talk about technology, it is even easier than in Europe: a whole army of hereditary bakers, who feel the dough with their fingertips and do without any technological layouts — and tiny bakeries on every street where people live.
Apparently, this is the only opportunity to provide with quality bread not only high-paid Moscow employees, but also the rest of the population.
Accustomed to scolding visitors for business and just like that, Muscovites somehow do not really notice that almost every metro station has a stall, inside of which is a real Central Asian tandyr stove, and on the shelves are the freshest, just baked flat cakes.
Some bakers eventually settle down and become more serious, they can buy loaves, baguettes, and even round gray loaves with the scent of wild sourdough squeezing the Russian heart.
The prices for such bread are not formed by shit, as it is generally accepted in Moscow, but from the heart, humbled by Islam and an understanding of the very essence of market relations.
The eternal Russian questions “who is to blame?” And “what to do?” In the case of bread do not have exact answers. It is impossible to blame women and men who laid their whole lives on the altar of bread factories. All of them, from the director to the loader, worked for wear, under enormous pressure and control.
It is impossible to blame and zaturkannyh co-operators, fascinated by the possibility of easy earnings (I wonder how many of them have survived to the present time?).
Something you can ask the effective managers of the victorious one and all retail chains, but where are they, those managers.
What to do? I think in the first place — do not interfere.
Today it is equally difficult to open a bakery, a restaurant, and yet these are projects of completely different social significance. Maybe a baker will come out.
What do you think?
Elena Anosova, editor-in-chief of Gastronom.ru:
For tasty bread, I usually drive in three places, if I’m not lazy.
M. Barrikadnaya. Stall in the square in front of the entrance to the subway.
Bake cakes in the tandoor.
Kalinka Stockmann in the Metropolis shopping center: any bread is good here, even ciabtta, even peasant gray.
Cafe-bakery chain «Daily Bread». I most often go to Novosloboskaya str., 21 and on ul.
Lesnoy, 5. Rye, Wheat, baguettes, challa are quite good.
Alexander Ilyin, deputy. Gastronom.ru chief editor:
M. River Station, exit from the last car from the center, the area in front of the shopping center is the hipster tent “Bread. Milk. Something for tea. ”
I buy there ciabatta and some gray round bread.
From the exit from m. River station to the left is a shopping center with the telling name «North».
In its depths you can find a Caucasian bakery, where there are always freshly baked flat cakes, as well as khachapuri, pies and other joys.
Quality is uncompromising.
Kalinka-Stockmann in MEGA Khimki — in the bakery, among other things, sell bread from Finnish frozen billets. Very good bread of French and Italian style — baguettes, peasant gray bread, ciabatta, focaccia and others. There is even a real rye, which may not suit every present-day Russian — it is painfully sour.
Olga Rodionova, editor of Gastronom.ru:
M. Sokol — in the pavilion behind the metro bake cakes in the tandoor, immediately prepare the dough.
Baking is the most diverse — pasties, pies, samsa.
Restaurant «Sim-Sim» (m.
Ilyich Square, Rogozhskaya Gates square, 1): wonderful tandoor cakes.
There is a small bakery on the market, an assortment of small buns, hedgehogs, buns and pastries with apples and cabbage, and bread, mostly white.
Shop at the bakery number 16 (Zvenigorodskoe sh., 11).
On Mondays and Wednesdays, before noon, you can buy freshly baked cakes, rush and bagels.
The rest of the bread is also hot and tasty.
St. John the Baptist Convent (Small Ivanovsky Lane, 2), in the shop at the monastery sell freshly baked bread of 7-9 varieties, as well as bagels, snails with cinnamon and cakes.
Coffee Shop «St. Andrew’s bakeries»: Verkhnyaya Radischevskaya ul., 22
Bakery Bakery Volkonsky: st. B. Sadovaya 46/2
Hot bread: Fomichevo st., 8
Bakery and Confectionery № 326-327: st.
Verkhnaya Krasnoselskaya, 7, p. 2
Pita Bread: Admiral Makarov St., 2
Cafe-bakery «Montparnasse»: st. Vorontsovskaya 2/10, p.1
Le Bread: Prospect Mira, 118
Delicious bread from readers Gastronom.ru:
From Zara: Very tasty bread and pastries in a shop in the metro area. Airport, in the building of the Complex "Airbus" (Kochnovskiy Ave., 4), «Bread and honey» is called.