Weekend in Kostroma or What does the Snow Maiden do in summer
The Russian province has its own charm and beauty. It is necessary to feel, accept and love, not expecting shine and riot of colors. Love Kostroma, as we loved her for 5 days traveling through the city and surroundings.
Come here for a weekend and check on your own experience: where to live better, eat deliciously and where you should definitely go.
And, by the way, to see the Snow Maiden in the summer you don’t have to go to her official residence — there are other places for that.
What did we know before the trip about Kostroma?
This is a city on the Volga, enters the Golden Ring, Kostroma cheese is produced here and in winter everyone who believes in miracles strives to meet with Santa Claus and his granddaughter.
As it turned out, this is such scant knowledge that we are now even a little ashamed of it, but we have already begun to correct.
We arrived in Kostroma by bus from Suzdal, so the absence of a car dictated its conditions.
I wanted to see everything and in just 5 days, so it was important for us to live in the center so that historical sights and the Volga were within walking distance.
Boutique-hotel “Ostrovsky mooring” (ostrovskij-prichal.ru), which is located in the building of the former river station — this is our choice, which we were very pleased with. We lived in the literal sense of the Volga.
Water splashes under your feet, and sailing boats and ships gently swaying the pontoon on which the hotel stands.
And this is the same “Swallow”, where the mustache Paratov with burning eyes of Nikita Mikhalkov so attractively seduced by a bumblebee Larissa Ogudalova, a dormitory.
Tip: if you live on a landing stage, be sure to buy fresh vegetables, berries, cheese, bread on the market and arrange dinner in the Volga for yourself in the evening.
Almost all rooms have tables and chairs that can be carried out on the balcony (deck), it is comfortable to sit on them and peer into the river expanses.
Boutique Hotel «Ostrovsky mooring»
The Volga embankment has become for us one of the main symbols of the city.
With it, we started the day and there it ended.
We went to the beach, played volleyball briskly and, with an extraordinary rise, saw off cruise ships.
Tip: Try to see the city and its surroundings from the water. To do this, go along the Volga on a pleasure boat.
It runs on Friday, Saturday and Sunday from the pier number 2. For 30 minutes of walking with a story about Kostroma, you will pay 200 rubles (the cost of a ticket for adults, a children’s ticket — 100 rubles). Or, together with Kostromichs, go up or down the Volga on the ship «Moscow-52».
These are regular flights, almost public transport, but the beauty of this along the banks of the great river is no less.
From our hotel to Ipatiev Monastery (ipatievsky-monastery.ru) walking step — 20-30 minutes.
We go through the city, we twist our heads, take pictures.
We approach the bridge across the Kostroma River, which flows into the Volga and in front of us is the snow-white Ipatiev Monastery.
It was here in 1613 that Mikhail Romanov, the founder of the future 300-year-old dynasty of Russian sovereigns, was elected to the kingdom.
Even if you are an atheist, be sure to visit the monastery. On its territory there are more than 10 objects that deserve attention as valuable historical and architectural buildings plus the Church Historical and Archeological Museum with a rich exhibition about the Romanovs. In the 19th century, court architects Konstantin Ton (the author of the Grand Kremlin Palace and the first destroyed Cathedral of Christ the Savior) and Fyodor Richter, the builder of the Romanov chambers at Varvarka in Moscow, worked in the monastery.
And what kind of tiles and wall paintings!
Entrance to the monastery is free, the cost of a ticket to the museum — 100 rubles.
From the exposition of the Ipatiev Monastery Museum
Tip: on the territory of the monastery, in Kolokolna there is refectory. They sell monastic pastries and homemade drinks (kvass and mors). It happens soup and hot.
If you want more satisfying and varied food, go to the embankment, next to the monastery.
AT Hotel «Ipatiev Sloboda» (www.i-sloboda.ru) there is a restaurant of the same name. The prices there (for Kostroma) are average, and what you want is the most golden-lived here, travelers pass by the hotel constantly. But even for a budget traveler, there is one wonderful option that many will like — this is Russian tea drinking at a samovar.
For 650 rubles you get 3 teapots of tea, pies, buns, guryev porridge, pancakes and pancakes with sweet fillings. The menu has also been seen dumplings, dumplings, sorcerers, porridges, buckwheat Krupenik and pea-bowl (husked peas, baked in cream).
The cost of meals from 90 rubles to 250 rubles per serving.
Ipatiev Monastery Hotel «Ipatiev Sloboda» near the house under the green roof on the waterfront
Will you be in Kostroma, stomp or come to Kostroma Sloboda Museum Reserve (kostrsloboda.ru). It is located next to the Ipatiev Monastery.
When you leave its gate, turn left and walk along the walls of the monastery to the Powder Tower, then turn left and walk along the road (approximately 15-20 min.) To the powerful wooden gate of Kostroma Sloboda.
Since the end of the 1940s, several expeditions of the Academy of Architecture of the USSR studied the territory of the Kostroma region, including those that fell into the zone of the upcoming flooding.
It was for the purpose of rescue from flooding that several first monuments of wooden architecture were transferred to a safe city line.
There is a special in wooden houses. They are alive and they just need to be able to talk and learn to listen. Each hut and building in the museum is just that. «Window window case» — the signature under one of the exhibits.
As if the words of some ancient conspiracy to comfort, grace and peace in the house, but only this plot can be touched.
Exposition of the Museum-Reserve «Kostroma Sloboda»
Be sure to take a stroll through the museum grounds, buy something from the birch bark as a souvenir, go boating, don’t forget the photo and go to the interactive program. If Olga Nikolayevna Pushkina is leading her — quite well.
We were guests of the program about the stove.
The story of Olga Nikolaevna under hot tea and gingerbread bread is something.
We learned how to use a grab and put chununs in the oven, found out who such a pottery was and how she helped little girls in the science of cooking porridge, saw what portable cups were and how much tea should be poured into a cup so that the conversation would be long and dear to stay longer .
Olga Pushkina, a notable storyteller, an employee of the Kostroma Sloboda Museum-Reserve
By the way, Kashnitsa is a doll, stuffed with croup and tied with a string.
She, or rather her size — a kind of visual hint for those who want to cook porridge correctly.
Here is her recipe: crumbs to the waist, water to the neck, and gruel to the top.
Tip: The site of the museum-reserve in the free access has ethnographic materials.
Be sure to study them by following the link “Museum Publishing” and “Electronic Library”.
On the territory of the museum-reserve «Kostroma settlement»
There are three antique shops in the city, but real treasures that you find yourself among the well-worn kinds of shabby things can be found in Kostroma’s two flea markets. On the «flaps», when both for the seller and for the buyer, the «round dances» around junk is not even a means of earning and spending money, but a fascinating attraction.
This is a place for those who love old things and can figure it out or simply know: “I need this spoon” or “I won’t leave here without this brooch.”
One flea market is located near the monument to Ivan Susanin — on Susaninskaya Square.
It sells coins, vintage jewelry, accordions, glass holders, records, wine glasses, dinner sets, cutlery and much more.
Most sellers going on weekends, especially on sunny summer weekends.
There is one more similar place, which locals simply call “collapse”. Here, merchants are guys with all sorts of glands, ranging from car parts and bicycles to home appliances from the times of the USSR and village goods.
Among this (for the knowledgeable) useful and necessary «junk» you can find real treasures.
It was there that we bought elegant silver-plated teaspoons made in Germany, presumably the end of the 30s — the beginning of the 40s of the last century. For reference: the camber is next to restaurant «Horns and hoofs» on the street.
Soviet. The market is open on weekends from 9 to 13 h.
The collapse on the street. Soviet
You are thirsty for shopping even on vacation or want to bring some special, rare souvenir from your trip to Kostroma — you just need to come to the Art Regiment store (vk.com/artpolkakostroma) on ul.
Tchaikovsky, 9. It sells everything (everything — within reasonable limits, of course) that can be put on the shelf. Most things are hand made. Masters carry their products from all over Kostroma and the region. «Art Shelf» is almost a shopping center, there are so many different goods here, only each shopping pavilion is reduced to the size of a shelf.
Margins are quite small and a large assortment (pillows, dolls, jewelry, watches, boxes, soaps, jewelry and bags made of genuine leather, notebooks, bow ties, electroforming objects, magnets (where without them) and much more).
Sumorokovo elk farm (www.loseferma.ru) — one of a kind.
Only here in Russia moose are raised to collect milk from them.
Loseferma in the village of Sumarokovo appeared in 1963.
At first they planned to do moose meat here, but soon changed their minds and concentrated on milk.
Milk fat is several times higher than cow’s milk — 8-12% (against 6-8% cow’s milk), and in lactose it almost catches up with women’s milk. Elk milk without smell.
A minimum of sugar and a maximum of trace elements makes it extremely useful, but bitter after 2-3 days.
Elk moose milk cannot be boiled, but only defended and it is better to drink it 8 hours after milking. Fat is distributed over milk almost evenly, without forming a clot, but only a thin film.
The taste of natural drink is soft, enveloping mouth. From late May to September you can buy it on the farm.
1 liter costs 1,200 rubles, but you can only transport a valuable product over long distances (for example, to Moscow) only frozen. As such, it is stored in the freezer for up to 6 months, keeping all the properties of fresh.
To defrost it is simple: at room temperature, immediately before use in an enamel pot.
By the way, this milk orders for Moscow White Rabbit Restaurant his permanent Chef Vladimir Mukhin.
First, they made fudge from elk milk in a star restaurant, and then switched to an eskimo.
The elk themselves are big-headed, oddly collected handsomes, they live for about 16 years.
They are able to swim 20 km along the river, like willow, mountain ash and wild flowers. Carrots for them like chocolate, oatmeal — a treat.
They eat toadstools and love the smell of diesel.
Sumarokovo moose farm — lunch time
About 30 animals live on the Sumarokovo farm, almost only moose cows.
They walk free, looking for suitors in the wild.
Moose boys after 2 years begin to be a danger to people, considering them to be their competitors, and they are sold.
Sugar farm of Sumarokovo
Young moose calves are taken away from moose cows almost immediately after birth, and a farm employee becomes their mother. And the milkmaid for a moose cow is a cub. One such milkmaid seemed to us like a Snow Maiden: she was so fine, blue-eyed and harmonious with nature.
In the summer, look for Grandfather Frost’s granddaughter on the Sumarok elk farm.
Snow Maiden in the summer working there as a milkmaid.
We traveled to the farm from Kostroma by taxi, which is what you want. The road is good, it will take no more than 30 minutes, and the trip will cost no more than 400 rubles.
For the entire journey, without taking into account the road, lay a minimum of 3 hours, and if you are with children, then more.
The kids will surely want to spend more time with the moose and will definitely hang out in the souvenir shop.
Tip: From the end of June, elks can be ironed and fed with a special meal.
And at this time you will be shown little moose bulls in aviaries.
You can not iron them, but to photograph — as much as you like.
Just think about the shoes for a trip to the farm, because you will have to walk on wooden flooring among the land and grass.
Elks of Sumarokovo elk farm on rest
And it was interesting for us, tasty and sincere.
Recommend restaurant «Honey, I’ll be late» (www.budupozdno.ru) to visit!
How nice that the owners of the institution 4 years ago had the sense to convert alco-thrash with dances on the table into a worthy institution about food.
Now it is a meat restaurant, where in addition to farm meat (there are 8 beef steaks on the menu, from 580 rubles for 250 g) sturgeon, trout, rabbit are cooked, craft beer and local liqueurs are served, and they make cooking fermented sour garlic, garlic and smoked wort.
At the head of all this riot of Kostroma taste is chef Evgeny Nechaev, who has been working here since the day of the opening of “Honey, I will be late”. Honest food for honest money = large portions and a reasonable check — this is the main idea of the institution.
We recommend ordering a meat salad of 3 types of meat with peanut dressing (270 rubles), cappuccino cream soup made from ceps (240 rubles), pancakes with sturgeon (310 rubles), Kostroma honey cake (180 rubles) and buckwheat ice cream Kostroma marshmallow and air wheat (150 rubles).
Meat in the restaurant «Honey, I’ll be late» is cooked on a grill «green egg»
Time flowed slowly, the food was delicious — an excellent reason for a measured conversation with Eugene about the gastronomic life of Kostroma.
«Be sure to try the Volzhanka cheeses, for example, goat. Good cheese brand «Apraksinsky cheeses.»
The local rabbit (TM Russian Rabbit) is also a great product. It is grown near the city in the village of Kuznetsovo.
I recommend bread lovers to try the bread of the Sudislav bakery, for example, Borodino. And gourmands — black caviar of Volgorechensky sturgeon. And just sturgeon to eat is great too.
If you want to take an edible souvenir with you, buy Ivan tea from the city of Makaryev, Kostroma black salt and canned mushrooms TM «Tsar Berendey«.
But the top urban institutions from Nechaev, where to go to eat: «The most famous and honored restaurant of Kostroma is Slavyansky restaurant. For the atmosphere, go to the “Old Marina”. If you want author’s cuisine, you need either a restaurant at the Cruise Hotel, or a restaurant at the Old Street Hotel.
In the latter, lean on seafood and freshly baked bread. Look for simple rustic cuisine, go to the eco-hotel «Romanov forest» (37 km from Kostroma). And, undoubtedly, if only you are not a vegetarian, be sure to go to our cheburechnaya in the Merchants.
Local pasties are worth it!«.
Tip: buy edible souvenirs in the restaurant’s gastrol corner.
There they are of proven quality and almost without overpayment.
One of the dishes of the restaurant «Honey, I’ll be late»
If you ask Kostromich: where to go to eat in the city, he will most likely call restaurant «Slavic» (slavyanskiy-kostroma.ru). Numerous paper and online guides will direct you there. The restaurant is located in the very center of the city, on the Milky Mountain.
He is more than 13 years old and all this time he is full of tourists, weddings, anniversaries.
Here they walk widely and loudly — in Russian.
The restaurant consists of two halls and a separate hall with wicker furniture for a small company of up to 12 people.
Chef Anton Dunaev cooks Russian food: rich, nourishing, generous and made from seasonal products.
Duck, rabbit, pike perch, carp, sterlet, milk mushrooms, honey agaric, lingonberry, cranberry, plus support in the form of dumplings, pancakes and pies — without this “Slavic” is simply impossible to imagine.
Volgorechenskaya sturgeon with red caviar from the menu of the restaurant «Slavic»
We recommend ordering a salad with beef heart and beetroot (230 rubles), poultry and pork galantine (180 rubles), meat hodgepodge with kidneys (245 rubles), Volga pikeperch fillet with fragrant roots (420 rubles) or homemade duck leg on “hay” from young vegetables (360 rubles) and cherry-cherry cake (150 rubles).
It is impossible to drop in here for a bite to eat, it is necessary to come here, very hungry, and to eat from the heart — after carefully studying the rich menu.
Tip: local jam and tinctures are excellent here. Buy a must! Especially beautiful jam made of felt cherries, rhubarb and cucumbers.
And for «Anisovka» and «Spotykach» you can once again come to Kostroma!
Salad with beef heart and beetroot from the menu of the Slavyansky restaurant
We found cheburechnaya by chance (even before the conversation with the chef «Honey, I will be late»).
Just went for a walk around the city and could not pass by the impressive trading buildings of the late XVIII — early XIX centuries, which occupy several blocks from Susaninskaya Square to the former Kremlin in the very center of Kostroma. The shopping arcades were built during the time of Catherine’s city reform and now make a powerful impression with their thoughtfulness and stately beauty.
By the way, not far from Cheburek in the Red rows there is a small museum «The Governor’s City of Kostroma».
Unfortunately, geolocation «Cheburechnaya in the Trading rows, Kostroma“No, why not — unknown. But chebureks and their price simply oblige such a label to be.
You can talk a lot about their gastronomical predilections, but local pasties are the thing! You should definitely try them, then come again and, after standing for a long line, sit down at a table next to a tourist from Ivanovo or China and, burning and dripping oil on napkins, hands and even clothes, there is roasted dough and juicy meat stuffing.
There is, and regret: and why only 1 cheburek was bought.
Chebureks and company
Again there is no such geolocation!
Pita grill (vk.com/pitagrillme) located in the Trading Rows almost opposite the Fire Tower. This is a city cafe with a nice bright interior and a good menu idea. It’s good to come here for breakfast: 120 rubles worth a set of “double fried eggs, bacon and toast”, 240 rubles. — a set of “classic burger, nuggets, french fries and cola”, 300 rubles. — A set of «double sandwich, french fries and lemonade.»
Yes, breakfast is served from 10 to 22 h! The service in the cafe is unobtrusive, it can be said not too hasty, but why rush if you are on vacation!
Shawarma at the fast-food cafe Pita grill
If everything is clear with chebureks (they are loved by us everywhere), it was amazing and pleasant to see a kiosk with steam buns at the Kostroma market. It’s great that local producers do not focus on yeast pies and pancakes, but cook quality overseas food.
Pian-se — steam buns from Korea. The dough is light and soft, the meat filling is rich and juicy. Buns and two large enough for a snack to a hungry man.
As the saleswoman told us, the owner of the kiosk traveled to the Far East, became addicted to the local cuisine and brought to her homeland the idea of introducing Kostromics to Asian food.
Tip: Pian-se is best eaten right on the spot — hot.
When they cool down, all their charm disappears and only the dough and just the meat filling remain.