Tiger milk, phytoplankton, bodypositive and other culinary trends of autumn
The current trends look as if everyone is suddenly tired of ideological ideas. Slogans — “Eat only local”, “Prepare only green”, “From hoof to tail — we are responsible for those we eat”, “Treasures from the dustbin” — temporarily put off, people just want to relax and have fun
The concept of «mineral taste» came to gastronomy from the language of winemakers and perfumers, but they both did not agree on what exactly it means and what exactly gives wines and spirits minerality — this note of freshness, like a sip of carbonated water, like sea wave, in which you fall under the scorching sun. Light acidity?
A barely perceptible note of “carved stone” (volatile sulfur compounds formed by yeast during fermentation)?
The brackish gazirovannost, which the vine somewhere in Saint-Emilion «pulls» of limestone soil?
One of the illustrating trend dishes in Moscow we found in the Berezutsky brothers in Wine and Crab — chefs prepare crab-hairy volcanoes, pour crabmeat fibers with kvass sauce, and an indescribable, joyful taste is made of mineral kvass, and no other word is chosen.
Ceviche over the past year has become almost our family. However, not everyone knows that the tiger milk marinade is necessarily included in the original Peruvian recipe. Tiger is not required for its preparation, the necessary ingredients will be found in the nearest supermarket if not in any kitchen: ginger, garlic, lime and oranges, sesame oil, soy sauce, brandy (all liquids, except lime juice, are put in the marinade in the same volume , and the taste of lime should dominate).
The resulting marinade is suitable for any raw fish dishes.
Well, if you get stuck, you can even make a “replica” of the famous dish from the restaurant El Celler de Can Roca, who for several years headed the rating of the best restaurants in the world.
The Roca brothers freeze “tiger milk” in a form decorated with a tiger’s muzzle — when served, this “tag” is spread over the fish, in a few minutes it melts and gives the desired taste to matter.
Tiger prawns on tiger milk
Stop torturing yourself! A new movement that has risen on the wave of healthy lifestyles is about accepting your body and your appearance as they are.
Work on the perfect appearance takes time, effort and energy, but the ideal is still unattainable (it can be said that it does not exist at all, because the beauty that glossy magazines impose is often created in Photoshop).
The movement has a leader — Australian Taryn Brumfitt, founded the Body Image Movement movement. In the spring, an Embrace documentary, shot by her, appeared on the screens all over the world.
Taryn tells her personal story — after several births, she went to bodybuilding to “get back in shape”, but realized that working on the body deprives her of all the joys of life.
The representative of the movement Bodypositive
Followers of Body Image Movement arrange screenings of the film and discussions in schools and public spaces, but I must say that the idea of bodypositive does not belong exclusively to them — it generally hovers in the air lately.
If you consciously treat your body, listen to it, then it will respond with gratitude.
Exotic European style
In the main European capitals there is a whole galaxy of young Japanese who have passed the European school of high cuisine. Someone was sous-chef at Pierre Ganier, someone for many years was considered the right hand of Massimo Bottura, but gradually each of them became a separate value, opened his own restaurant, and all of them — Tadashi Takayama (Kresios, Milan), Yoji Tokuyoshi (Tokuyoshi, Milan), Atsushi Tanaka (AT, Paris), Sadaharu Aoki (confectionery Sadaharu Aoki, Paris) and others formed an interesting “new wave” of author’s Japanese cuisine, “contaminated” by other cultures. These are not ethnic restaurants at all, and not just restaurants of modern cuisine, in them the acquired knowledge and skills are intertwined with traditions that come from the roots, it is, as they say, a different mentality and a different aesthetics.
It is in this direction — mixing gastronomic cultures, without dividing it into conditional Italy, Japan or Peru — and the kitchen of the future will move.
Spring roll with shrimp
Lemongrass and Dill
Lemongrass with Kaffir lime leaves and galangal root is the main flavor of the now fashionable Thai cuisine, but even solo it can add a recognizable shade of Asia to homemade dishes.
And what if you try to «mix» it with the usual spicy herbs?
You will be surprised, but it turns out that the union of lemon grass and dill has long been known, among the fruits of their joint work is chicken soup and thick chicken sauce (with shallots and paprika, thickened, as they do in Laos, with the help of uncooked round rice), tartare dressing (based on lemongrass pasta, you can make it by blending scraps, dill, olive oil and salt in a blender), light, with ginger, dressing for vegetable salad and even tea based on lemon grass and seeds dill
Chicken baked with lemongrass in coconut milk
Moscow, phytoplankton presented the star chef Carlo Cracco — and yet in his native Italy this powder, which the chef compares with saffron, has already gained serious popularity. Phytoplankton, one of the first forms of life on earth (microalgae, a plant-based organism, not to be confused with zooplankton that whales feed on), has existed in the ocean for millions of years, but only recently it was invented to be harvested, dried and ground.
It turned out dark green powder, which is added to any dish from risotto to potato cream soup, from mayonnaise to bechamel sauce, and the dishes acquire the original taste of the sea. Not fish, not seafood, but simply — the sea.
Phytoplankton turned out to be attractive not only from the “organoleptic” point of view, but also from the point of view of nutriciology — so promising, in a word, that it was already called the product of the future.
Tropical fruits — a great option when the fruit season in our latitudes ends. In addition, exotic fruits with their festive, floral aromas are a well-known source of joy. Alas, they do not reach us in the form in which they are found in their homeland, they do not expire with juice, are not drunk with the sun, but even those fruits that can be found here can serve well.
For example, do you know how good tropical fruits are with fish and seafood?
Sometimes it is enough to have an almost homeopathic dose of passion fruit, guava, mango, citrus of any color, from yuzu with lime to bergamot, so that the dish will acquire a new taste.
Marinate salmon in lime or yuzu juice, add sliced mango, pineapple, chili pepper, red onion, salt, pepper and olive oil in a couple of hours.
Miami Spice Cocktail with Papaya
Tamarind in Arabic is “Indian date”, and its sweet and sour fruits are mainly associated with Indian cuisine, although they are widely used in other cuisines, from Persian to Thai.
Tamarind fruits — brown beans, ripening in large pod-cases — are sold all over Asia in candied, salted, dried, frozen species, but we are most interested in tamarind paste.
Dried and compressed tamarinds (they can be bought in ethnic shops) are poured with boiling water, cooled and sorted by hand, pulling out the bones, and then rubbing the paste through a sieve so that it becomes homogeneous.
Then you can proceed with it at your own discretion: for example, mix it with melted butter and pour over the minced meat, which is stuffed with peppers and eggplants; fry the onions with garlic, mix in spices, cilantro and parsley, and then tamarind paste — and stuff the carp or dorado with this mixture; combine pasta with coconut milk — you get a great sauce for chicken; Dilute it with hot water and add to the cauliflower with spices.
In all these cases, from the tamarind in the dish — only the flavor, but its invisible presence, believe me, will not go unnoticed.
Onion Packers with Tamarind Chutney
The Petersburg duo of the artist and confectioner works under the Marfa brand. Confectioner Vitaly makes biscuit — honey, almond, bird-cherry — «canvases», and the artist Nastasya paints oil on them (in fact, a cream with food dyes).
He writes Serov, Klimt, Degas, Modigliani, Shagal, Dali.
Or their author’s canvases, also quite worthy of gilded frames. An amazing fact, by the way, is that the palette of many cakes is dark. “Most of all I love my gray cakes in different combinations,” says Nastasya Chernogrivova. — Customers also love them very much, admire them, but at their desk they want to see something brighter. In St. Petersburg, people want colors and sun.
Or the stars — Van Gogh’s «Starry Night» I can now write from memory, and soon I will start drawing it with my eyes closed. «
The cakes from “Martha” are the answer of our cultural capital to the worldwide rainbow-and-one-year trend coming from the USA. At the beginning of this year, unicorn enthusiasm reached its peak: cakes, pastries, chocolates, and cocktails consistently found their coloring.
Starbucks launched unicorn frappuccino, and chocolate brand Ritter Sport launched a limited edition of unicorn chocolate bars, which not only sold out in three days — the influx of people who wanted to buy brought down the company’s website.
In the rainbow segment, there appeared their own “stars”: for example, food designer Adelin Vo, who, like our Nastasya, works with color, she achieves the most unusual shades on her edible palette exclusively with the help of organic ingredients, mixing thick yogurt and cream cheese with natural juices, algae and liquid chlorophyll.
Spiralizer is a non-untraneous invention, but the general public is still unknown. And at the same time indispensable for those who love vegetables.
With it, you can chop vegetables (zucchini, carrots, beets, cucumbers, potatoes) with a long «noodles», and from this «noodles» just make ultra-trendy vegetable spaghetti.
In English they are called zoodles (zucchini + noodles).
These gluten-free vegan and in all respects dietary (100% fiber!) Spaghetti cook even faster than usual, they do not even have to be cooked — you can eat raw, or barely cooked in the microwave, or fried a few minutes in olive oil with garlic.
Add any sauce and you get the perfect lunch.