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Tarte Tatin from Alexander Seleznev

The French are trendsetters in both clothing and cooking.

This has been the custom since the XYII century, from Louis XIV, the Sun King. At that time, such gastronomic holidays were held in France that the whole world spoke of them. And now in neighboring Belgium, Switzerland, Germany there are many pastry schools, and very good ones, but the French are still ahead of the rest!

And almost always, in all international competitions, French confectioners win, nobody can get around them, and they are invited to the bosses more often than others.

Every year I try to go to one of the pastry schools in France for at least two weeks.

It seems that I myself am a professional pastry chef, and with decent experience, I have a lot of books, and when culinary competitions are held, I am constantly invited to the jury, so I have experience — and still, every time another French practice teaches me something something new.

Because cooking, like any art, does not stand still — especially when it comes to the French.

Maybe it’s all about the inspiration?

French Dessert non-standard, they are made with mood, I would even say, with meaning. For example, if the cake is decorated with raspberries — it is not just that, not only for the sake of beauty, it means that there are, for example, raspberry marmalade inside.

In the French desserts «just“Nothing happens at all.

And their pastry masterpieces are often distinguished by some intensity. The Germans or the Japanese usually decorate their works with strict geometric shapes, everything is clear, smooth and precise, while the French are kind of careless — the crust is broken, the chocolate crumb is piled up in disorder, the barrel falls down.

But in fact, to create such «negligence”, You need to work very hard — it’s like if you want your hair to look“ natural ”, you have to style your hair for an hour.

French pastry chefs are unpredictable and even dashing, they are constantly experimenting — playing with spices, adding cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, lavender, rosemary to desserts … Or something alcoholic — liquors, tinctures, rum, brandy.

But we have to treat such alcoholized desserts with caution: they say, this is a children’s meal, what alcohol can be!

Therefore, we andwoman a rum«Did not take root — because of the rum, and even because many people remember the Soviet» woman with rum «, a dry and not very tasty loaf with icing.

But the French «macaroni«Fit into our lives quickly — maybe because they are a bit like almond cakes?

Why don’t we love dessert that is so much appreciated by the French?Opera«, A wonderful chocolate and coffee cake — I can not understand this.

But I understand very well why the French are horrified at the mere sight of our favorite cakes «with rosettes».

So much fat cream, heavy biscuit, how can you eat it?

The French, on the one hand, are great traditionalists — they appreciate their history, including culinary, very much like classic desserts.

On the other hand, they are also fashionistas; It may seem strange to many, but there is a fashion for confectionery! So, this year homemade pastries are fashionable, as well as cakes and pies of soft, natural, pastel colors — caramel, coffee, pistachio.

And last year everything was purple, a lot of blueberries, plums and candied violets were put into desserts.

And a year earlier, everyone ate orange — cakes and pastries with persimmon, apricots, oranges …

Unfortunately, to repeat the French recipes with Russian products will not work.

Take even the same croissants — they need special flour, and now it is sold here and there, but it costs like black caviar. And you need a special oil, and special yeast.

And if you make a croissant from the usual products from the supermarket, you get a simple croissant.

Maybe delicious, but not a bit croissant.

However, something we can still repeat.

Today I offer you my recipe for one of the most popular and most of my favorite French desserts — tart taten.

Four green, solid, sour applesgranny»Remove the skin, remove the core and cut each into four parts.

In a mold with a diameter of 26 centimeters, lightly greased with butter, we spread the apples in circles, starting from the edge of the mold and moving towards the center.

Sprinkle apples with lemon juice.

Now we make caramel: on a strongly heated frying pan, sequentially pour four tablespoons of brown sugar and add 4 tbsp. l water: when the first portion has melted — and is about to boil, immediately pour some more sugar.

But do not give boil!

Quickly pour the resulting caramel on apples.

Two tablespoons of butter tear fingers to pieces.

Pieces of caramel scatter — it is still warm, so that the oil slightly melts, but does not melt completely.

We get out of the freezer square (500 g) puff pastry, put in a microwave to defrost.

Then roll out with a rolling pin to the size of the form, cover the dough with apples and cut off the excess.

We make a few punctures with a fork in the dough — to give way to a couple and to make it better.

We send our tart taten for 25-30 minutes in a preheated to 180 degrees oven.

Remove the tartare from the oven and leave for 15 minutes (not covering).

Then we turn it over into a dish, cut it into pieces and serve, decorating with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

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