Elena Anosova, editor-in-chief of Gastronom.ru, talked with chef Sergey Eroshenko about ducks, beavers, quails and other wild specialties that appeared in the new menu of the restaurant Honest Cuisine.
There was a time when we sold all the French ducks.
A Russian duck has now appeared in Moscow stores at a reasonable price — both in its entirety and disassembled into parts.
Can our ducks compete with French women?
We have a great duck! I have been working with one supplier for twelve years now, I like his ducks much more than the French.
My farmer’s name is Lech, and he works wonders with ducks!
Lech somehow feeds them in a special way, what is the gastronomic success of his ducks?
I do not ask. It’s like asking a magician how he does tricks, why?
He does not ask me about my tricks.
I trust Leh, and trust in the supplier greatly saves the time of the chef.
What part of the duck for which dishes are more suitable?
From the breast you need to make stewed breast and salad with stewed breast. It is also possible to dig up the breast. Leg must be slightly extinguished, and then baked.
Or cook it in broth at low temperature — you will get stewed duck leg confit, with vegetables and spices.
Duck is the only product from which you can make everything: a salad, a soup, an appetizer, a slice, a hot meal, and a dessert with foie gras.
Bright product, multifaceted!
And I recently ate a pickle from a duck prepared by our editor Alyona Spirina.
Pickle with a duck is a class!
How long does it take to fry the duck breast so that it is juicy?
It all depends on the weight of the breast, on the heat, on whether this breast is thawed or chilled — unlike chicken breast, there is no universal recipe.
What spices and seasonings are not friends with duck and vice versa?
Rosemary and Zira I would rule out.
But sweet paprika and juniper are very suitable for duck.
Which side dish would you recommend for duck?
Duck has fatty meat, it is self-sufficient in taste. Therefore, the side dish should be neutral and tart.
Acid activates taste buds.
Sour apple chutney, celery puree, orange marmalade with spices.
Russian foie gras — is it possible, in your opinion?
Well, there is a Ukrainian foie gras for sale …
Do you like her?
I can not say that I like it, it is suitable for use. There are products that are difficult to find an alternative.
Foie gras, truffle, parmesan, olive oil for salads — these products, if you use them, cannot be mediocre, only excellent.
Ukrainian foie gras does not pull.
Did you develop a new menu under the pressure of new economic realities of our life?
I always made the menu, preparing for these realities.
Therefore, “Honest cuisine” is based solely on Russian farm products, as well as on those products that I mine myself, personally — geese, ducks, rapana, pheasants, beavers.
Are beavers delicious?
Highly! Beaver has a great fleshy tail. The meat is thick, taste brighter than beef, with a slight duck flavor.
In the menu we have a beaver stewed in a wood-burning stove.
We carry to the masses the culture of consumption of beavers, beavers, beavers and beavers.
Remember that from a beaver do not expect good and kill a beaver — save a tree!
The beaver tail, stewed in the oven
Do you pay attention to seasonality?
Undoubtedly. This applies to both vegetables and game.
For example, a duck has two seasons — spring and autumn, the autumn duck is luxurious, and the spring, after the flight, is dryish, tough.
In general, the spring duck hunting is an excuse for hunters to get ready to drink.
Twenty flying skeletons will be shot, flooded with water, they boil for a long time and drink a lot.
What is your experience like a hunter?
Five years, a little.
Someone got you hooked on it?
Having thrown underwater hunting, he became interested in forest hunting.
What game do you hunt?
They say that every wild meat is fraught with parasites.
They lie! Only bear
The elk does not get sick, the deer does not get sick, the boar is sick, but the boars are carefully checked before selling.
And I wouldn’t even try to check the moose — I haven’t met sick moose.
If only mentally.
Who are your game suppliers?
Eighty percent are farmers — from Kamchatka to Kaliningrad, a very wide geography.
And, say, the guinea fowl is in the new menu of “Honest cuisine”?
No, the guinea fowl is too expensive.
Beaver is not like that?
When you choose Russian suppliers, do you care more about price or quality?
It is better if the price is slightly lower than the market.
Now many chefs are passionate about domestic marbled beef, this trend.
Do you like her?
Let’s just say: I’m tasting it. But since it is not possible in six months to do what people usually do for decades, I have many questions for Russian manufacturers.
Some have a very good visual quality of meat, but the complete absence of organoleptics.
Others have the opposite.
Experimentally, I picked up only two parts of the carcass, for which I can vouch, giving them to the guests.
This is a Voronezh striploin, and Kazakhstani ribay.
And if we talk about non-premium parts?
Magic scoop at Miratorg!
In the segment up to a thousand rubles it is hardly better to find.
When do you cook, try?
By all means!
This new generation of chefs born on gadgets, when they cook, do not try, but I try, in the old fashioned way.
What is your signature dish in the new menu?
Fazanyi cutlets with stewed quince.
In the oven, on the wood.
I understand that a wood-burning stove is your favorite cooking technology?
Not. My favorite principle: the less you cook, the better.
If the deer leg is not possible in five minutes to cook, then it must be prepared so as to prepare as quickly as possible.
It should be less tricky with the product, he does not like it.
You, as a chef, are now severely limited in gastronomic facilities due to sanctions?
I will never be limited. In fact, now there are many more opportunities. Because everyone started to move, manufacturers blew their cheeks, more willing to make contact.
For example, thanks to the sanctions on the market appeared excellent quail!
Previously, nobody knew about this economy, but now they have entered the market, they have become noticeable. In my new menu there is a quail, fried in mustard-cherry marmalade.
And smoked quail legs as a cold snack.
And what about cheese?
You do not like the Krasnodar Camembert and the Belarusian mozzarella?
No, do not like. Why do something that we still fail? Belarusians, of course, can do everything, if their dad makes them, but why?
Hammer on the cheese!