Learning to cook with Natasha Skvortsova — duck confit
It’s time for geese and ducks. I buy them at the beginning of November, when fat birds had already worked up everything that needed to be fed for winter. I always take from Lyuba.
She sells meat, but every autumn brings from her relatives from the Volgograd region remarkable huge birds.
I used to just freeze them and, as necessary, bake them in the oven. Delicious but inconvenient. These hulks occupy the entire freezer.
And last fall I found the ideal option for processing birds.
I make them confit.
All winter we ate this simple, nourishing and very tasty dish in different versions: with fried potatoes, buckwheat porridge and cracklings, with mashed potatoes, in soup, in borscht and just like that, without everything and even in a cold form.
And do not be afraid that you will prepare confit for three days.
Real time it takes much less.
The first day goes to cutting carcasses. Separate the breasts, legs and wings.
Strengths required considerable. Usually, after the third goose, I am left without nails.
Frame, skin and fat folded separately. All pieces of meat rubbed with a mixture of dried herbs and sea salt.
I put it in a clay pot and put it in the fridge for a day.
The second day is devoted to cracklings and baking. All the cut fat and skin grind and drown over low heat to the state of cracklings.
Pour the pieces of meat with melted fat and put the oven in a preheated to 160 degrees oven for three or even four hours. After readiness, I cool, separate the meat from the remaining bones, lay it on the jars and fill it with fat.
Banks tightly close and leave in a cool place until completely cooled.
The next day, the fat freezes, becoming white.
Now you can clean the banks in the fridge or in the basement for storage.
It can stand up to six months, but this does not happen, because when there is confit, everyone wants only confit!
And that’s it, how not to argue and not convince: they ate it only yesterday and let’s leave until the New Year.
The same day, the third, I dedicate to the remaining frames.
I take a huge pot, send them inside, fill it with cold water and put it on a strong fire. I start to remove the foam as soon as I see the first signs of its appearance.
At this moment I do not move away from the pan and remove the foam continuously, not allowing it to turn into flakes and settle to the bottom.
As soon as all the foam is out and I see that the broth has become transparent, I add leeks, bay leaves, carrots, a mixture of five peppers and an eighth of a hot chili pod.
Reduce heat and boil for about three hours.
My God, what happens to the broth!
At some point, such a magical aroma begins to emanate from the pan, so that the children, like hungry cubs, run one by one to the pan, asking the same question: “Mommy, and what is delicious you cook today?
«And seeing that sticking out of the pan alone»horns and legs, Frustrated bewildered.
I am ashamed to admit, but I used to throw away all the bones after cutting a bird, not even knowing what a splendid broth it turns out, especially if you don’t skimp and put frames from several birds at once.
In one spoon of this miracle there is such a riot of flavor and goodness, such a powerful concentration of taste that after the first spoon a moan of utter gastronomic bliss comes out.
Each time, giving guests confit and listening to enthusiastic responses, I convince them that, that confit is elementary, and even the most inexperienced in matters of cooking can cope with it.
For example, this year, when Lyuba called and said that it was time to pick up the birds, I was not in Moscow and my aunt Lucy had done the confit perfectly, having received all instructions by phone.
When I returned, I found in the fridge a slender row of identical jars in which pieces of juicy and fragrant meat shone through the whitish fat.
“I have four children and, of course, most of the time I spend in the kitchen. I perceive any information from the point of view of its application to cooking.
When I meet a new person, I look into his eyes and try to guess what he eats for breakfast and what his lunch consists of.
Very often, according to eating habits, you can make a psychological portrait of a person. I do not have branded recipes. I cook so many and varied that there is no need to repeat the same dish several times.
I like to experiment. If something touches me in a dish, I take it as an idea as a basis and develop it. I do not like the phrase «author’s cuisine.»
All the basic culinary techniques invented before us.
You can only change something, customize for yourself, to your tastes. I can stand at the stove all day and get an incredible thrill from it. I like to watch the soup gurgle in a saucepan and the clear broth overflows with amber bubbles.
I love the smell of fried onions and garlic.
I like the warm softness of yeast dough and the flavor of cherry pie with cardamom.
If it were possible, I would live in the kitchen. ”
Learning to cook with Natasha Skvortsova
«Loser cleans potatoes»
How to learn to cook and what is needed for this? Now every week, Natalya Skvortsova will share her knowledge, ideas and recipes with aspiring cooks.
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