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Lake Trasimeni — what to see, what to try

Lake Trasimeni — what to see, what to try

Lake Trasimene, located on the border of Umbria and Tuscany, on the Italian scale is very solid. But the Italians somewhere in the subcortex laid the idea that you can not swim in the lake.

At first it surprised me, but after looking more closely at the lake water, I understood what was the matter.

The southern lakes are not flowing, so the bacteria here are simply swarming, you will not only see them with the naked eye, but they will still jump out of this water and ask for pens.

So all those Italians who swam in the lake died out and left no offspring.

The rest admire the lake from afar.

And I advise you to do the same.

Grandma’s Fish

In my opinion, the most beautiful landscapes in Italy are on the border of Umbria and Tuscany.

Here the height of the hills fully meets my aesthetic requirements and, apparently, not only mine.

On the shores of Trasimeno (that’s what the lake is called in Italian) are small medieval towns, one of which — Castiglione del Lago — simply revived the scenery of Swan Lake.

In my love for this town, I am not alone: ​​Castiglione del Lago is officially recognized as one of the most beautiful borgo (it is this word that calls the small, but certainly the old cities) of Italy. It is located on a cape, which goes so deep into an almost perfectly round lake, that from a distance it even seems that it is on an island.

Powerful fortress walls create the feeling that the city is about to collapse from the high bank into the lake’s depths.

I advise you to walk through the medieval streets, and then, coming out of the main gate, go to the tiny restaurant Le Scalette (via XXV Aprile 24a), where you will be warmly welcomed by the hosts — a charming couple. But the true soul of the osteria is hidden in the kitchen, where everything is commanded by the host’s mother, a real Italian grandmother.

She prepares fantastic!

Of course, trazimenskuyu fish, which is not afraid of bacteria.

As a primo piatto (first course), I highly recommend umbricelli — a rather thick, long pasta, traditionally made in Umbria, which my grandmother makes with lin sauce (tinca) and truffle.

Very unexpected combination.

Truffles are almost never added to fish, and here it is not enough that this is fish, it is also smoked.

On the second, again, take the fish — I recommend the royal carp (carpa regina). And here is the focus. The carp is cooked in porchetta, that is, “in porquette”.

The fish is filled with herbs, prosciutto and lard, and then baked as if it were porquette (we read about it in an article about Perugia). The result is something amazing: juicy fish without a characteristic fishy taste.

Honestly, I tried to find out the recipe, but my grandmother turned out to be flint.

As we later found out, she is a celebrity of the town, because no one knows how to cook the carp anymore.

Death by milfea!

From Castiglione it is best to head to Passignano (Passignano) — here is a beautiful green beach and a pleasant promenade along the water.

And the town itself, charming with the contrast of the rough stone of the fortress walls and the mirror smoothness of the lake water, deserves a visit. There are usually a lot of tourists, so the restaurants are crowded, and the food is very average quality.

So limit yourself to ice cream on the beach of Trasimeno, or take food with you and have a picnic.

For a meal we will head to Tuoro sul Trasimeno.

The place is truly historic: it was here that the army of Guy Flaminius entered into battle with the army of Hannibal and lost.

They say that during the excavations they still find the tusks of elephants brought by Hannibal to Italy.

You can drive through all the iconic places of the battle by car, by bike, or even get around on foot.

Here is my favorite restaurant in Umbria. It is here that I bring guests, and now I reveal my secrets to you.

Finding a place is not easy.

The restaurant is located on the territory of the farmhouse Capricci di Merion (via Pozzo 21). Google finds a place on the map, so you can get there. It is best to book a table in advance, and with you — attention! — Do not forget to grab swimsuits and swimming trunks: there is an outdoor pool, an indoor jacuzzi and a sauna to boot.

All this is available to visitors of the restaurant, you only need to notify about your arrival.

In the warmer months, you can sit at the tables in the garden, but if you are out of luck with the weather, it is also very cozy inside.

On Saturdays live music — harp.

The menu is a special theme. First of all, gentlemen pay here, as menus are brought to the menu without a price tag.

Secondly, the menu changes regularly in accordance with the seasonality of products, but the quality and style remain the same.

For a snack, I think I take potato casserole with truffles from year to year (they are white or black, of all kinds and stripes) or, for a change, order langoustines — they are deliciously fresh here! — With mashed asparagus.

From the first courses I like black ravioli filled with red potatoes the most, and I also advise you to try spelled pasta (did you remember everything about Pop and Baldu?).

Well, you can order fish and meat for hot meals.

I’m not changing the rosemary tagliata — this is counter grilled fillets.

And now … the most damning thing is a millefeu of meringues with mascarpone cream. Now, if you die of gluttony, then here, and only after milfe!

This beautiful death is surely served with strawberries or wild berries, so much so that you surely forget about all the diets.

Prosecco at sunset

Ferries depart directly from Tuoro, where you can reach the islands on Lake Trasimene. There are three, one — Isola Maggiore — habitable.

In a tiny town with a church on a cliff and grandmothers weaving traditional laces, there are only 18 people, so it’s not worth counting on restaurants. In addition, no matter how absurd, there are big problems with water, it is delivered every day in the tank on a boat.

But there is a walk where — through the entire island there are many paths and paths.

Returning from the islands, I advise you to climb higher — on the hills. Here, from the restaurant Da Massimo (via dei Romani 16, Loc.

San Savino) offers stunning views of the Trasimeno.

Just watch the time of sunset: I believe that it is necessary to drink prosecco for an aperitif in the last rays of the setting sun: it is both more beautiful and tastier. This restaurant is exclusively fish, and here you will find both lake and sea fish. As always, I advise you to simply ask the owner who was caught exactly today.

In Trasimensky lake, by the way, there are a lot of pikes (luccio), so if they tell you that they caught such a beauty just today, do not refuse!

“Well, and drink? Drink something? «- You rebel. And you will be right.

Therefore, the next time we go on a trip to the best wineries of Umbria.

Ksenia Smirnova:
“I am ashamed to admit, but I really love to eat. Yummy.

Everything, whatever I do, is somehow connected with gastronomy. Being in fact a philologist, I unscrupulously reduced any of my scientific work to the systematization of buns, the story of peacocks baking in the Middle Ages, and to various gluttony. Now I am writing my dissertation and teaching Italian at the university, where I torture students with articles from Gambero Rosso.

I also have other interests: I love Italian opera very much and even teach Italian to future opera singers. So what do you think?

The relationship between opera and food does not end with Rossini’s gourmet!

One has only to recall the table in Traviata, or Già la mensa è preparata from Don Juan, or Puccini’s “Bohemia”, where three out of four acts are about food (or its absence).

I also love to travel, but the pleasure of a trip for me will not be complete without gastronomic experiments.

Yes, yes, and the notorious «I will not eat until I take a photo» — also about me!

I tried to fight with myself.


In the end, I realized that I always suffer in the third round of hell. Sad but what a company! ”

The idea of ​​the week:

Idea of ​​the week: Bologna

About the city of Bologna, where does the Bolognese sauce come from, Bolonevian raincoats, lapdogs and the Bologna process, says Ksenia Smirnova.

She lives in Italy, writing a dissertation.

See below.

Touring Umbria: Perugia

Together with Ksenia Smirnova, who lives in Italy, we begin a great gastronomic journey around the peninsula.

See below.

Umbria: Perugia neighborhood

What is assisi strudel and where does the beautiful Kyanina live? Our great gastronomic journey through Italy with Ksenia Smirnova continues!

See below.

Traveling Umbria: Norcia

Today, together with Ksenia Smirnova, we arrived in Norcia, a town in Umbria, closer to the border with the Marche region. Every Italian experiences to this place exclusively.

See below.

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