The season of sour green plum tkemali sauce preparations is coming.
Olga Syutkina suggests cooking flavored and truly Georgian kharcho soup with green tkemali.
At the word Kharcho Immediately there is such a picture: a rich, fragrant, spicy beef soup (lamb) red — with tomatoes or tomato paste. Seasoning — hot pepper, garlic, hops-suneli, cilantro.
The filler is rice and, as an option, crushed walnuts.
Everything is simple and familiar.
But few people know about the green soup of the kharcho, although it is no less, and maybe even more, an authentic Georgian dish.
In principle, why this happened, it is clear — this is the Soviet legacy.
So we were introduced to the kharcho in catering, so they wrote in culinary publications, primarily in «A book about tasty and healthy food«.
Meanwhile, the classic of Georgian cooking Tamara Sulakvelidze in his book «Georgian dishes«(1959) talks about 11 ways to make soup Kharcho. And not only from beef, on which V. Pokhlebkin insisted, saying that the brisket and shank in this soup cannot be replaced with anything. But also from lamb, pork, poultry (chicken, goose, turkeysturgeon and sturgeon sturgeon.
With tomatoes, with and without nuts, and even with pasta.
The latter is somehow somewhat miraculous.
So, following the wise advice, I cooked a kharcho without tomatoes, with Georgian green tkemali sauce.
By the way, the season of this delicious sauce is coming right now.
What you need:
- 600-800 g of mutton (I have chopped up pieces from the scapula and some brisket)
- 4 onions
- 1/2 cup rice
- 3/4 cup green tkemali sauce
- bunch of cilantro
- 3 cloves of garlic
- hops suneli, hot red pepper, black pepper
What to do:
Cut the lamb into small pieces, put into a pan, cover with onions, cut into cubes, cover and simmer on moderate heat for 25-30 minutes.
Meat is stewed in its own juice with onions, so no need to add any fat.
Then add 2 liters of boiling water, bring to a boil and cook until meat is ready — about 1 hour.
Salt to taste in the middle of cooking.
Wash the rice, pour it into the pan, immediately add tkemali, add crushed garlic, hops-suneli, red-black pepper. How much to put pepper is a matter of taste. But the soup Kharcho must be sharp.
Cook over low heat until cooked rice.
At the end add chopped cilantro, let the soup rest for 5-10 minutes and eat immediately!
Wash it down with good red wine, of course, ideally Georgian.
“The kitchen of my love” was the name of my first book. Since then, in addition to traditional gastronomy, my husband and I have taken up the history of Russian cuisine, have written a new book — “Uninvented history of Russian cuisine”. She is about the past of our gastronomy, about how it arose and developed.
About the people who created it. Now comes the continuation of this work — already about the Soviet period.
Together with readers, we are trying to figure out whether the Soviet cuisine was a logical stage in the development of the great Russian cuisine or was an accidental zigzag of history.
Here I will try to tell you about how sometimes a wonderfully story comes to our today’s world, to our kitchens and tables.
Recipes Olga Syutkina:
Spinach Salad with Champignons
Olga Syutkina suggests cooking champignon salad according to an old Russian recipe.
And there is no contradiction here.
Let’s just say: real Russian pancakes were made from buckwheat flour and called red. Milk was baked from wheat flour with milk with eggs added.
Holiday menu: fish rolls
Do you think that fish day is a Soviet invention?
Not at all. Only two days in Lent are allowed to eat fish — on the Annunciation and Palm Sunday.
It is made from young beet leaves, spinach, sorrel, cucumbers and greens, and for its satiety they add noble white fish.