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Journey to Abkhazia: the boy and the kitchen

The walls of the wattles wicker of walnut vines, but so cleverly that the room is ventilated at the same time, but not vented.

In the middle of the ladies — a double hearth.

Above one part there is a cauldron with water, next you can put a pan with an abysmay-hominy.

Above the second part there hangs an iron sooty ring with hooks — pieces of pre-salted meat are hung on them and smoked right above the fire. A man stands next to the hearth and continuously rotates the ring, two or three hours, occasionally replacing it.

In the same place, above, the lattice hanging on chains. On it, about two and a half meters away from the flames, are circles of cheese, gradually acquiring a brown-golden crust.

Above all smoked calf abalone stretched on crossed sticks — without it there will be no fresh cheese in the house. Chicken carcasses hang from the grill itself: they are cold smoked, and the meat is hot.

Smoked cheese will then be cut into thick slices and put in hot abystu — the main food on the table. Meat will be chopped and fried in a pan or put on skewers like skewers.

Smoked chicken will be served cold.

More on the table will be salted vegetables tinted with red elderberry juice, hot, freshly cooked homemade chicken with yellow skin and dark meat mixed with adjika, and, of course, adzhika itself, and tkemali sauce, and fresh, just cooked cheese in small lumps, mixed with red pepper and greens. A good Abkhazian hostess collects a table for guests in 20 minutes.

Only the chicken cooks longer, and everything else must be prepared in advance.

In traditional Pakhs — exceptionally delicious food, in whatever you come. But the menu is not too diverse, but tourists who are accustomed to their metropolitan lifestyle (Muscovites in Abkhazia in summer there are always many, almost more than half of those who rest) and on the Black Sea coast they want rolls, Caesar salad and shrimp rocket.

For them at the very beginning New Gagra, right on the beach, stands a modern stylish building of glass and dark wood.

Dance Vernada, coming to the tide line, fully sliding windows, cigar room, sushi chef brought from Moscow, chef Max, roaring crazy lyulya kebabs, smiling waiters, excellent Caesar — although the gardo and the Gagra masterpiece are shkvarchaschaya pan «with meat and vegetables, there too, of course, there is.

And magnificent mojito of the most different type, especially good raspberry. On the roof of the building there is a sign «Mahito» — that’s it, through the letter «a», and this original writing has a characteristic history for these places. The day before the opening, a pre-ordered outdoor advertisement was brought to the restaurant: huge stretch marks, a signboard, and stands.

Anticipating the beauty of the hosts turned all this wealth and dumbfounded: «Mahito.»

They became sad and then decided: well, okay, there will be an Abkhaz color and a topic for conversation.

So left.

Travel to Abkhazia: Gagra, Pitsunda, Ritsa

Once upon a time Abkhazia was, as they wrote in Soviet newspapers, a “favorite vacation spot for citizens” of the entire territory, which is now called the Russian Federation.

Then came the troubled times of war in the Caucasus. But the world returned to the Abkhazian land — and it is time for us to return there too.

See below.

Travel to Abkhazia: New Athos, Sukhumi

Standing above the sea, the monastery in New Athos is visible from afar, the domes again covered with gilding shine against the backdrop of mountains and blue sky, and walk along the steep paths high, but shady and this is pleasant. The main temple has been completely restored from the outside, restoration work is being done inside without bothering it, the monks are busy with the housekeeping.

See below.

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