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Jerusalem — what to see and what to try

Here he is — Jerusalem!

It lies, as in a bowl, an old city with majestic domes of temples and mosques, with ancient fortress walls, with gates, towers, confused narrow streets filled with tourists and merchants selling absolutely everything from refrigerators and ending with the “one hundred percent authentic” Cross of the Lord.

Instead of a guide to Jerusalem, you can take the Bible, because half of the local names are familiar even to an atheist: Via Dolorosa (Mournful way) and the valley of Kedron, the Garden of Gethsemane and the tomb of King David, Golgotha ​​and Mount Zion, the upper room of the Last Supper and the tomb of Absalom … There is no other concentration of shrines anywhere: two minutes walk — the Holy Sepulcher, the main shrine of all Christians.

And yet, in order to really feel the ancient city, you must go to the tiny Coptic temple and hear the ancient chants of its thin, black people, wrapped in bright cloths of the parishioners.

Examine the pavement, on the stones of which there are badges scratched by Roman soldiers — who knows, have they not cast lots for the clothing of the crucified Christ? And to take a walk in Jerusalem at night, deserted and unrecognizable: the shops were closed, it became quiet, a bit scary and there was absolutely no one to ask the way …

If you think that Israeli cuisine is stuffed fish or some kind of tsimes, then you are not quite right, because these dishes were invented by European Jews.

BUT Israel it is inhabited by people who have come to the Holy Land from all over the world, and the cuisine of Moroccan Jews was very different from what Jews were used to, for example, Argentine.

In a word, modern Israeli cuisine is a cocktail from the Mediterranean, Arabic, Maghreb, German, French, Russian and other cuisines, and they are united except for a koshr, which prohibits eating pork, seafood, fish without scales, interfere with meat and dairy, and so on. .

Fortunately, the koshrut does not prohibit the meat from interfering with the meat, but there would have been no Israel’s meurav Yerushalmi — “Jerusalem mix”, that is, piles of different fried meat served with vegetables, hummus and tehina.

Somewhat embarrassing is the fact that the recipe for the ideal meurav contains mysterious components — “chicken navels” (but chickens do not have navels!

) and «turkey testicles» (I think birds don’t see anything like that.), however, Israeli chefs somehow get out of the situation.

Try al-a-ashe — meat on the coals, shakshuku — scrambled eggs with tomatoes, halva, nougat, baklava, excellent dates. And at every opportunity, eat chicken kebab skewers — strange, like nothing special, but I personally did not eat anything better.

Do not neglect kebabs and falafel.

And, of course, at least once eat the fish of St. Peter — it is found in the Sea of ​​Galilee (it is also Lake Kinneret).

In Jerusalem, you can very nice to eat shekels for 60-80 (one shekel is close to 9 rubles) that for such a tourist and pilgrimage site is very modest.

On Shabbat, that is, on Friday evening and on Saturday, many Jewish restaurants are closed. But the Arab ones are open — there is no pork here, but seafood is available.

The Armenian tavern at the Jaffa Gate is also open — by all means visit it in order to eat dolmas and basturms.

And, they say, there are a couple of institutions in Jerusalem, where they decided to go back to basics and prepare them according to biblical recipes.

So, in the restaurant «Eucalyptus”, According to rumors, you can try the stew of lentils of Jacob and Esau — it seems that this is the same lentil stew, for which the birthright was sold.

It is interesting, of course, although not everyone agrees to try a dish with such a dubious past.

Extremely facilitates the life of a tourist the fact that about every fifth Israeli speaks Russian.

And even more facilitate the life of Israeli wines, the most famous of which come from the vineyards of the spurs of Mount Carmel, which means «God’s vineyard«.

Olga Volkova:
“I was born in the summer of June 17th, and probably this is why I hate winter with all my soul, as well as late autumn, early spring, and generally cold, darkness, slush, and snow.

As soon as all these troubles begin in Moscow, I am drawn to go somewhere far and more pleasantly.

Most of all I love to travel, and the profession of a journalist allows me to do it, even if not as often as I would like, but still more often than if I worked for someone else.

My second passion is that I love to eat tasty food, and I am ready to try anything except dogs and cats — I will not eat these for anything, because I love them very much.

Like all other animals, by the way, I love them so much that I not only filled my house with them, but I also write articles and even books about them.

And I also speak French, famously drive a car and consider it the most foolish thing in the world to iron socks and shorts. ”

The idea of ​​the week:


March 8 is not far off, but we have extra pounds on our hips, skin over the winter, bags under the eyes and a strong disgust for life. See below.


For some reason, Delhi we visit except on the way, stopping here for a day on the way to the sea.

Meanwhile, the Indian capital deserves more!

See below.


A hundred and fifty kilometers from Sofia there is a mountain called Pirin. On the slope of this mountain, around the 9th century, the town of Bansko was formed, which today.

See below.


Now you can become a guest of the Lithuanian capital for a weekend for 300-400 euros, or even cheaper if you go by car: from Moscow to Vilnius — less than 900 km.

See below.

Spring in Madrid

Madrid is a truly royal city, majestic, elegant. And everything is in it, only there is no sea.

However, in March it’s early to think about the beach.

See below.

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