How to open a trendy restaurant in Moscow: the secrets of Ilya Tyutenkov
Ilya Tyutenkov — famous person in the world of the restaurant business. It was he who opened in Moscow super-popular restaurants: Williams, «Ember», Pinch, «Northerners».
All projects Tyutenkova literally doomed to success, and become hits.
We interrogated Ilya with predilection, how to achieve this.
— Ilya, in your restaurants it is rather crowded, dark, not very comfortable, it smells strongly of food — but all this is popular.
“Disadvantage is a relative concept.” I do everything a little for myself, and everything comes from my inner understanding, which is convenient, which is inconvenient.
For example, I believe that closeness makes it possible to exchange energy, it creates a feeling of “moving”. Someone is wildly enraged, and such guests simply do not come to us.
My target audience, on the contrary, appreciates such things.
An open kitchen, smoke from oven-baked dishes create a sense of contact, a sense of life. Darkness has to closer human communication, and I for sex.
During food and sex, a person produces the maximum hormones of joy.
We are moving in this direction.
— You often repeat that uncompromising is your style, but this is contrary to the rules of the restaurant business: you cannot create a restaurant, guided only by your own taste.
— In fact, all author’s restaurants, whether they come «from the chef» or from a restaurateur, are a projection of this person’s inner world. For example, everyone who likes to play in the interior has restaurants-palaces or museums.
So all the talk about such rules — slyness.
It is clear that I want to do well for a large number of people, but you will not please everyone.
— You somehow mentioned that ten years ago you brought out the formula of an ideal restaurant for yourself.
What is it?
— This is a special, but comfortable food that you can eat every day.
So, this is a unique chef with an unbanal approach. Good location, nice places around. Because if you want people to come back, and the basis of the restaurant is regular guests, then they should be comfortable.
Very good relations within the team, lack of fear and anger among employees.
This is a great rarity and value — the ability to get rid of anger.
Super friendly staff.
— In relation to guests with children you have a friendly policy?
— Absolutely friendly!
— Some against the kids in the restaurant.
— Yes, this is tediousness!
Let’s still not let people with a mustache or ugly dressed.
This is the road to nowhere.
— How long do you pick a team?
Making different people as open and friendly as possible is not very easy.
— This is an ongoing process. People come, go.
But those who stay will grow and improve. First of all it concerns chefs. Now I have a lot of people in my team who can raise others.
In my opinion, this is cool. For me it is important that the whole team develops.
That is why I do not open many projects in order to ripen internal quality.
— Is the chef’s key figure for you in the restaurant?
How much do you interfere in his work?
— My participation ends at the moment I take the cook to work. We discuss the conditions, the concept, discuss various ideas, and then the cook must act independently. Of course, I occasionally give some advice and wishes, but without twisting my arms.
I believe that creative people cannot be broken, otherwise the desire to invent something new will be lost. I am generally for trust as a form of communication between people. It brings people together, and does not share, which is very important, because a restaurant is a team sport.
In single restaurateurs I do not believe.
— You consider yourself a Buddhist. How much does it help in work and in life?
— Helps a lot.
You always see the picture as cause and effect. Everything that happens to you is a consequence of the law of karma.
It’s easier for you to cope with the huge amount of emotions that are always in business: affection, anger, jealousy, envy, misunderstanding.
You develop a simpler attitude to all of this.
I would be interested to create a company built on Buddhist principles, because this is the very mechanism that allows you to develop awareness in a team.
— How do you think, how gastronomically grounded are your guests?
Are they ready to experiment?
— We initially created institutions for the so-called fudi. And the Moscow public is generally ready for anything.
Try in Italy discover something more than a restaurant of modern Italian cuisine!
— Your restaurants for every day?
— I want it to be that way, for me this is important.
— Well, there are also restaurants for holidays and special occasions.
— A holiday restaurant is good, but only the market is weak for such establishments.
Therefore, I am wary of such a concept.
Let it be better smoke the yoke, the queue is worth, but for every day.
— What do you think you are — hipster, fashionable guy, celebrity?
— All by a little. You need to understand what the word «hipster» means.
These are people who are at the peak of the trend. They are the most brutal nihilists, because they deny everything else — vulgar, dull, boring. They are big snobs, because they feel a little different.
In a way, I feel that way. Hipsterism is actually an old story.
It was in the 40s, and in the 50s, simply called differently. I also feel a star because I know many people and many people know me, and this is very nice.
As for fashion, yes, I like beautiful things, beautiful people, beautiful food.
— And more brutality, apparently.
Even the interior of your restaurants is appropriate.
— I love noir because it’s beautiful.
Here is the fashionable series «Games of Thrones» — this is noir and fantasy at the same time. And my restaurant «Northerners» is about that. Half of the people who went there for the first time perceived it very negatively, simply with hostility — what a grave, semi-grave atmosphere!
But others immediately had a fantastic affection and love, they saw this as a deep meaning and became our regular guests.
— What do you think will be the main topics in restaurants in a year?
— The main thing is what we call neoclassical. Classic stuff to new manners. Classic is perceived by all the same.
Why do hotels dominate the classic interior? Because it is a risk insurance. A classic in a restaurant is a balanced universal menu that is perceived as something affordable, and in a restaurant accessibility is important.
Add to this a couple of new trends — that’s your neoclassical.