Gastronomic journey in the Vladimir region: from Fairy Tale to Cucumber (part 2)
In the project’s boundaries Gastronomic map of the Vladimir region Olga Zakharova, Gastronom magazine columnist and site editor, set off for a one day rally Moscow-Pokrov-Vladimir-Suzdal-Moscow.
During the six stops along the route there were a lot of meetings, conversations and tastings.
About three stops: the restaurant Fairy Tale, the plant, which produces the Pokrovsk gingerbread and the agriturismo Petrushino Olya told earlier. Now the story goes about the Russian Village complex, the Monomakh and Kruch restaurant in Vladimir and about new farm restaurant Cucumber in Suzdal
On the territory of the complex there are two-storey wooden houses with rooms, built in 2002 in the spirit of Russian huts with carved platbands, a three-storey building commissioned in 2014, with elegant hand-painted walls and wooden beams under the ceiling, plus a sauna complex, and, of course, an inn » Outskirts «and the restaurant» Russian Village «. The latter is a bit younger than the Fairy Tale restaurant.
It was built for the 1980 Olympics and can also be considered a veteran of the restaurant business in Russia.
The restaurant (with 250 seats) is located on 2 floors plus tables on the outdoor veranda.
The place is atmospheric and, despite the large area — cozy.
Connoisseurs of texture and folk crafts will surely appreciate woodcarving, painting in the style of Palekh on the walls and wrought-iron chandeliers.
We were treated in the tavern «Okolitsa». It is remarkable for its location — its doors overlook the forest, and, of course, the Russian stove.
What a village without a stove!
Chef Angela Filippova is proud of the stove and constantly learns the wisdom and subtleties of working with her.
Today, the menu has a dozen dishes cooked in the oven, plus it also bakes bread for food and for sale.
Those interested can take part in master classes in baking bread and curly dough products, which take place in the tavern.
Guests first knead the dough, for the time of his life and ascent, go for a walk around the neighborhood, and when they return, they send it to the oven and at the end of the master class they get hot pastries, which you can eat with tea or take with you.
Festivals and festivals are held regularly in the GRK.
So June 4th will be held holiday of Russian cuisine «Okroshka».
Recommendations on the choice of dishes in the restaurant «Okolitsa»: homemade lard, cabbage cabbage soup, bast (juicy meat patties with mashed potatoes or buckwheat in rye pastry), chicken broiler with meat and mushrooms, millet foam with milk foam, baked in the oven, wickets, kvass
Hotel and restaurant complex «Russian Village». Vladimir, Moscow Highway 5a
Hotel «Monomah» was opened in 2005. The hotel offers 16 rooms of various categories.
If desired, at the reception desk you can choose one of the proposed excursions in the city and the surrounding area, order a ride in a horse-drawn carriage and even sign up for a lesson in horse riding.
Lyubov Korovina, the hostess of the hotel, has her own stable and therefore has access to horses. Lubov Andreevna also loves to cook and receive guests, which means that the food in the restaurant at the hotel passes the most strict host control.
Of course, she herself is not worth it behind the stove, but together with the chef she selects recipes and spends a hard work on the dishes.
The menu in the restaurant is extensive, while frequent guests of the restaurant are advised to try the pike zrazy and local strudel with apples and raisins.
Strudel is really good. Exhaust dough is prepared for him by the chefs of the restaurant. And he, unlike many of his own kind, combines crispy dough and rich aromatic stuffing, not sticky and not cloyingly sweet.
And pike zrazy stuffed with egg, green onions and carrots.
They just have to try.
Even the most fastidious fish lovers are ready to eat two servings of zraz.
Recommendations on the choice of dishes: chicken Kiev, fish dumplings, beef cheeks, beef roll, stuffed with ham, cream cheese and pickled cucumber, horseradish
Restaurant and hotel «Monomah».
Vladimir, st. Gogol, house 20 (behind the Dramatic Theater)
If you want to make an impression or want to make an impression on you — you just need to visit, or hint about your desire to visit, in the restaurant “Krucha”. Steeper only a dozen expensive restaurants in Moscow and the Moscow suburbs. Although, the Vladimir restaurant has something that its rivals do not have — a picturesque view from the summer terrace, a little from above, like a bird.
It seems that before you unfurled the canvas of some unknown artist until now. Here, you and the forests, and fields, and paths, and the railway, and village houses, and fog, which spread along the ground.
And the name of the artist — Nature.
A person or more precisely — a group of comrades — they only correctly chose a place for building and, of course, successfully entered the existing landscape and the hotel and restaurant building.
Therefore, if the weather permits, choose a table on the open-air veranda or on the Yar summer terrace.
If you want to feel comfortable in the «cooler», dress up or just pay attention to your outfit, and in this case look.
You won’t run in here by chance, if only for lunch.
In the evening and on weekends they come here on purpose, many show themselves and look at others.
The a-la cart menu makes it clear that this is a gastronomic restaurant with an emphasis on Russian cuisine, although Mediterranean dishes are also not alien to it. There is also an interesting thing in the restaurant — “Guest menu”, which does not include prices — especially for our dear guests and partners.
In general, the supply of dishes is interesting and in the spirit of the time: on stone, with smoke, in wooden cases.
Recommendations on the choice of dishes: liver pâté with baked apple dumplings, “Olivier” salad with salmon and caviar and undoubted luck of the chef — duck fillet with Vladimir cherry sauce
Restaurant «Krucha» Park Hotel «Voznesenskaya Sloboda».
Vladimir, st. Voznesenskaya, house 14b
Based on the name, we can conclude that the cucumber, which grows freely in Suzdal, is the main character of the “program”.
This is true. The city has always been famous for its sweet, juicy and crunchy cucumbers, which you can eat like a pie or an apple — just “without everything”, for your pleasure.
Plus Suzdal was famous for cherries, horseradish and onions.
They will also actively participate in the restaurant and bistro dishes.
In general, “Cucumber” is an emphasis on local products, which local residents competently present to the guests of the city.
At the head is the ideologue and owner — Igor Kekhter, mayor of Suzdal (in the photo — on the left).
In the kitchen, gastronomic ideas come to life — chef Yuri Kovalchuk, a native of Vladimir (in the photo — on the right).
Until recently, or more precisely, until April 30 of this year, in the glorious and dear to my heart Suzdal there was no cafe where you can quickly, cheaply and tastyly eat an eternally hurrying tourist. For him, the speed of service and cooking is extremely important. The bistro, which opened just at the end of April, provides such an excellent opportunity.
Here you can buy edible souvenir: cucumber jam or tincture of cucumbers.
For those who are willing to spend more time on the meal — the restaurant «Cucumber».
It’s nice that «Cucumber» will live not only food as such. Around the food here decided to develop a hectic activity.
A large two-story house with a stone basement and a second wooden one was almost completely destroyed for some time, and now it has been restored and filled with gastronomic life. On the ground floor there is a bistro, on the second floor there is a restaurant, a small banquet hall and a studio for cooking classes. In the courtyard, beds were built, where cucumbers and spicy greens will be planted in the very near future.
Surrounded by vegetables, here you can eat on the summer terrace, drink fragrant tea or spend a holiday.
The interior of the restaurant made the most pleasant impression on me. It turned out to be complete, thoughtful and spectacular. There are many different, seemingly contradictory details in it, which being nearby — suddenly — fit into some very true and harmonious mosaic.
A strip of colored slats on the ceiling is successfully duplicated by striped textile «backing» under the plates. Birch trunks play the role of colon and find a response in the wooden doors with carvings and trim, which are hung inside the room and turned to the guest. Such diversity and bold moves in the decor are simply explained: the designer did not work on the interior.
The decoration and the entourage are a matter of several people — Kechter, his friends and relatives.
Each of them contributed something of his own and from the scattered ideas of solo parts there was a memorable melody in honor of the glorious gastronomic past, present and future of Suzdal.
Life boils not only in the kitchen «Cucumber». Active work is being done on the improvement of the garden and vegetable garden on the outskirts of Suzdal, where they will grow more than 20 agricultural crops.
At present, cherries and plums have been planted, which are gaining momentum this year, and then zaplodonosyayut in full measure, providing the restaurant’s kitchen with fresh stocks of fruits and berries.
A small cultural and shopping quarter will soon appear around the restaurant building itself. Igor Kekhter decided to revive the former glory of Suzdal cellars, so that any guest could find there for himself or as a gift horseradish or a couple of jars of canned vegetables and fruits.
Also nearby it is planned to open a small grocery market in which Suzdal grandmothers could not hide and feel free to sell the harvest from their gardens and orchards.
The plans for the creation of the Museum casings — another pride of the city.
Recommendations on the choice of dishes in the restaurant «Cucumber»: cucumbers Suzdal pickles, pike cutlets in a nut breading on a biscuit crust, pike perch with a side dish of cucumbers and creamy pumpkin.
Farm restaurant and bistro «Cucumber».
Restaurant opening hours 12-23 hours, bistro — 11-19 hours. Suzdal, ul. Lenina, house 121
Ekaterina Shapovalova, author of tourist concepts and head of the Agrotourism Russia project: To project «Gastronomic map of the Vladimir region» includes the most interesting places associated with food (cafes and restaurants, farms and food production).
The addressees are located in several main areas, diverging from the city of Suzdal — in the direction of Moscow, Kovrov, Yuryev-Polsky, Gus-Khrustalny and Murom.
They present the guest not only food as such, but also other useful entertainment options: master classes, seminars and practices, excursions, meetings with interesting people and so on.
Initially, out of 140 recipients with tourist potential, a working group led by the mayor of Suzdal Igor Kekhter and me selected 40 seats.
During the four expeditions, in the company of several experts we traveled around the Vladimir region and personally checked and tasted everything, communicating with farmers, entrepreneurs, restaurateurs and chefs. As a result, the “Gastronomic Map of the Vladimir Region” should include 25 addresses of the most worthy, proven and reliable partners.
It is to them in the coming season that the main flow of tourists will be directed.
Having worked in the tourism business for a long time, I understand that now you can’t surprise anyone just with food and comfortable accommodation at a hotel.
What is important is the concept and unified program — the original tourist product of today.
Such as the «Gastronomic Map of Russia».
Often, farmers, restaurateurs and chefs in a series of troubles and worries do not even notice all the opportunities that can be obtained from the site.
A striking example is the restaurant «Cucumber». A culinary studio does not have one restaurant in the region, but it is extremely necessary.
It’s great that Igor Kechter responded to my proposal and now the studio for 15 places is preparing to receive the first guests.
It will provide jobs for guests, so that everyone can prepare their own dish, repeating all the stages of cooking for the chef.
Even in Moscow, not all culinary classes can so boast! ”.