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Gastrokamp — Change: how it was

From July 14 to July 17, the first international conference took place in Nikola-Lenivets Gastrocamp "Change".

14 best chefs from Russia, France, Belgium and the United States came together in an open field to demonstrate their gastronomic power.


Half a year ago, a well-known gastronomic journalist, initiator and creator of the Moscow Omnivore, Natalya Palacios I decided to organize a festival, for which every year chefs from all over the world will gather in the Russian backwoods.

There they will study the way of rural life, the culinary traditions of the region, experiment with local products, invent and prepare new dishes.

And all this should happen in front of the guests of the festival and end with a large joint feast.

Natalya was supported by her friends: Ekaterina Drozdova, owner of the Ragout school, Anna Kukulina, commentator at Simple Wine News, and Natalya Savinskaya, editor-in-chief of the Restaurant Restorator magazine.

In the middle of May, girls together with Moscow chefs outfitted a gastroexpedition in Kaluga forests.


The 14 best chefs from Russia, France, Belgium and the United States participated in the first Gastrocamp:

  • Walter El Nagar and Hen Sagi, chefs at Barbershop restaurant, Los Angeles
  • Inaki Atspitarte, chef and creator of the restaurant Le Chateaubriand, Paris
  • Kobe Desramaults, Head Chef, In de Wulf Restaurant, Drenauter, Belgium
  • Andrey Ryvkin, Chef of United Kitchen, Market Bistro, Moscow
  • Anton Kovalkov, Chef of the Fahrenheit restaurant, Moscow
  • Vladislav Korpusov, chef of the restaurant «Muesli», Moscow
  • Dmitry Zotov, Chef of the Wing or Leg restaurants, Zotman Pizza Pie, Madame Wong, Moscow
  • Igor Grishechkin, Chef of CoCoCo Restaurant, St. Petersburg
  • Ivan and Sergey Berezutsky, chefs of Twins restaurant, Moscow
  • Katya Plotnikova, chef of Moments restaurant, Moscow
  • Oleg Petrichenko, Cheapside Chef, Moscow
  • Timur Abuzyarov, chef of Beer Happens and Wine Religion restaurants, Moscow

For three days, 14 brave chefs studied the local flora and fauna, adopted the experience of farmers (for example, chopped cabbage), learned to cook shoulder to shoulder in wood-burning stoves and on the grill (without using any professional equipment) to have a fantastic dinner for 200 people under open sky.

Plus, in two local cafes special festival menus were presented.

In the salad bar "Behind the garden" (Farm Morozov) could taste the dishes from the special menu from Andrey Ryvkina (United Kitchen): meat, stewed for 20 hours in the coals in the earthen oven, and his trademark duck blasted.

And in a cafe "Ugra" served dishes on a special menu Oleg Petrichenko (Cheapside): salad with smoked cheese and cherry, cucumber soup with yogurt and zucchini, guinea fowl fillet with chanterelles and apples and rustic yogurt with berries for dessert.

Three days

Culinary laboratories were held at the Smena: the chefs got acquainted with each other and studied what was growing in Nikola-Lenivets.

True, the harvest was not set this year, so I had to actively use wild berries and herbs.

Herbalist Maria Dyachenko led an international team of chefs to the surrounding fields, where 15 Kaluga wild herbs were selected, which became full-fledged ingredients for the final dinner on Saturday.

Kobe Desramaults, chef In de Wulf

Friday evening school chefs and volunteers Chefshows prepared a test dinner for 80 guests from seasonal vegetables, meat, poultry, herbs, berries and fruits.

Despite the fact that the schedule of work with the oven was painted between the chefs literally by the minute, the famous baker bloggers Alena Spirina and Maria Kudryashova managed to bake the most delicious bread.

On Saturday, July 16th, for "guest workers" A rich program was prepared: village fair, where you could taste farm tea with honey and lemonade from 30 local herbs, buy Lumber Wood wooden utensils or natural cosmetics and soap; Master Class to create a new food product from Andrey Ryvkin (Mabius Center); open cooking school using coal briquettes; competition for the best kebab from chicken etc.


The culmination of Gastrocamp "Change" became a dinner of 7 innings. In order to invent and prepare dishes together, the chefs broke up into pairs beforehand, and this is what happened:

  • Ivan and Sergey Berezutsky. Black currant tacos with a solar oven zucchini and lemonade with fermented black currant leaves.
  • Katya Plotnikova and Kobe Deramo. Appetizer «Broken flowers» from kefir, with flowers of herbs, smoked bread and sorrel.
  • Timur Abuzyarov and Inaki Etspart. Fried chanterelles with hollandaise sauce of pickled yolks.
  • Dmitry Zotov and Oleg Petrichenko. Millet porridge with chicken hearts and ventricles.
  • Anton Kovalkov and Vladislav Korpusov. Guinea fowl and buckwheat.
  • Walter El Nagar and Heng Sagi. Sabayon with wild fruit.
  • Andrey Ryvkin and Igor Grishechkin. Fortified stewed milk with Borodino bread and sour berries.

By the way, the Inaki Ektsiparta pickled yolks were not useful and he gave them to Kobe Deramo.

That, in turn, made of them a wonderful dessert, adding berries and flowers of meadowsweet.

In addition to gastronomy was a unique Crimean wine, which is aged in cellars in the Alminskaya Valley to the sounds of classical music.

Impromptu dessert from Kobe Deramo

Organizers express special thanks to partner companies: "Arkhyz", Apach, "Asepsis", "Zharushka", "Troekurovo", Lumber wood, "GlavZhar", Big Break, Land Rover, Prodo, La Ferme, Mabius.

To whom you can come to Nikola-Lenivets:

Farmers Morozov

Anna and Sergey Morozov are a perfect example of downshifters: in 2011 they came to Nikola-Lenivets to make a real farm, having only a joint experience of cultivating city gardens with LavkaLavka at the factory "ARMA" and in the park "Museon". In the sloth Morozov "issued" hectare of a field overgrown with birch undergrowth, which they cut down by hand and a year later they received their first harvests.

Today, farmers own 17 hectares, of which, however, only five are used — 215 plant varieties are grown (75 types of crops) without the use of mineral fertilizers, pesticides and chemicals, and this year they plan to start breeding animals.

In the salad bar "Behind the garden" for food from local products come not only residents of Nikola-Lenivets, but also supporters "green" lifestyle, eco-and agrotourists from all over Russia.

Muscovites were more fortunate — on the Danilovsky market, the Morozovs have a permanent point of sale of farm products with a seasonal cafe.

Anna and Sergey Morozovy (left)

Travnitsa Maria Dyachenko

Maria and her husband moved to the Kaluga region about 10 years ago.

During this time they managed to give birth to two children, build a house, a bathhouse, greenhouses and dig a pond. Mary was born in Siberia, and from early childhood went with her grandmother to the forest for herbs.

In their family, knowledge of the healing power of wild plants was inherited, and now Maria applies herbal experience and knowledge in practice: grows more than one hundred different edible and medicinal plants (including those from the Red Book) on her plot, collects herbs for mental teas and vitamin forest spices; lectures and conducts seminars.

Krutikova Manor

The Krutikova family switched to raw foods from 2010, and at the family council it was decided to grow organic vegetables in their family estate near the National Park. "Ugra".

Today, they have more than 40 types of vegetables, herbs and berries, which can provide not only themselves, but also up to 10 other families per year.

Only from them is it possible to buy a varietal heart-shaped frost-resistant nut, frost-resistant persimmon, pecan, azimine (Nebraska banana), a perennial grassy liana (red sweet cucumber) and other rare seedlings and seeds.

By the way, the Krutikovs hold seminars where they tell how to grow real eco-products, having only 12 acres of a proper vegetable garden, a greenhouse and a cellar.

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