Farm food products — product quality assessment
Alexander Ilyin, deputy editor-in-chief of Gastronom.ru: “Eco-food is a complete garbage!”
Should I hear about some food product that he farm, organic or ecologicaly clean, I feel bad
The reason is that in Russia, not one of these words is worth anything.
Do you understand what farming means?
I will tell you. Farmer’s — it only means that if you are unhappy with the quality of a particular chicken, a particular beef rump, or a particular potato, you have the opportunity to sue a particular person. Or, as is more often the case in Russia, to drive into his courtyard, turn the bumper gate and give his fist in the face.
Personal responsibility is what a farm product is.
More than this, the word means nothing, and can not mean. Farmers do exactly the same business as corporations, only their target audience is different.
Their chickens do not sit in cages, but walk around the yard, and live longer — but not because the farmer somehow empathizes with them, but because their turnovers are small. If there were large turns, they would sit in cages, like pretty ones, with their beaks cut off, and would go under the knife, barely reaching the desired weight.
Feed these “happy chickens”, believe me, with exactly the same compound feed as at the poultry farm, and in the same way pour antibiotics into their drinking.
Because otherwise there will be no business, but only some birds dying of hunger and epizootic birds.
You may ask — why are farm products more tasty?
And why is broth one million times better than broiler?
And because they live longer.
In animal husbandry, taste is always a function of the lifetime, and no Michurin can change this.
Everything else is affected minimally or negatively.
Say, hypertrophied free grazing — what is so good about it? An animal rushes all his life, like a mad man, his muscles get athletic condition, the fat content decreases to a vital minimum — and what?
Can you chew such a bike? No farmer will allow an animal to walk longer than is necessary for the balance of protein and fat in its muscles, that is, so that the meat turns out to be tasty.
Whether it is useful for the animal itself is a question that has no answer in the plane of modern agriculture.
In any case, when I am offered to pay 500 rubles for a kilogram chicken, citing it only by his farm origin and without saying a word about his quality as a product, I begin to suspect that I am being held for an idiot.
However, we turn to ecological. What is it at all, is it bloody Eco and damn Bio? These concepts have two sides.
First, some strict regulatory agencies, whether public, private or cooperative, are irrelevant. It is important that the strict guys from these bodies relentlessly inspect farms that subscribe to the fact that their products deserve an honorary nalepki bio or eco.
And God forbid that.
Five years is so long, according to Italian eco-experts, you need to keep the land under steam before you even think about environmental cleanliness.
On the other hand, there are consumers who have read Jean-Jacques Rousseau, who are ready to eat all this rather gloomy rubbish. Why frowning? Because it is being eaten by beetles and caterpillars, because it is small in size, the shape is irregular, and there is no taste.
Did you see how the carrot looked before the Dutch breeders worked on it?
She was purple, fine, bristly and savory.
Have you seen which potatoes are sold in the Indian market anywhere in Peru?
These clay-polished peas? Want to live in such a world?
I strongly doubt something.
Even more strongly, I doubt the rationality of the human species.
Because the practice of thinking requires courage after A to speak B and even B. And if we happily subscribe to a universal return to our ecologically clean roots, natural cuisine and to an unproductive farm, we must remember that by doing so we consider it possible to spend on food and the problems associated with its prey, about two-thirds of its life. And who, you thought, would go after the pigs?
Boris Akimov, a journalist, artist, musician, one of the creators of the LavkaLavka project: “There is a specific person behind the product who is responsible for it. It should be, but it is not always the case. ”
I know one famous Moscow restaurant that says “farm chicken”.
When I asked “What kind of farmer is this from?”, They explained to me that this chicken was not from a farmer, but it was cooked “in a farmer’s manner”.
What does this mean — I do not know. But it seems to be complete nonsense.
So it’s full of speculation.
But at the same time, if the chicken is really from the farmer, as we have in ShopLawke (when it is known exactly where this farmer lives, how he contains chickens, how he feeds them), here begins a colossal difference between the products — the chicken from the store and the farm. We preach the principle of full transparency.
This means that everything is known about the product. From its author — the farmer and the address of appearance — to fertilizers and details of the content, feed and other things.
Each buyer of the Shop of the Shop can go to any farmer — and he can see everything on the spot. And this is more expensive than any name «bio» or «eco» — for such concepts there is often much more marketing than we would like.
But the farmer’s personal responsibility and the complete transparency of the product’s history are the guarantee of both quality and taste.
I will not go into details, but the fact that Alexander Ilyin writes about antibiotics and so on is not true. Large producers and small family farms with which we work grow animals in completely different ways.
For example, farmer brodovsky — his pigs live on the streets of semi-wild life and their organisms do not need any antibiotics.
Once again — transparency just guarantees us the absence of all that we don’t want — antibiotics and so on. You can, of course, say: but the farmer can deceive? Can.
But this deception is sure to be revealed.
When analyzing or during personal inspection of the farm, he will lose a large number of clients.
And such a self-regulating system is the future.