Lace, feather, air, royal, boyar, Guryev — it’s all about pancakes. How to make dough for different pancakes, Gastronom.ru found out from Vladimir Mukhin, the chef of the restaurant White rabbit
Vladimir, have you been involved in Russian cuisine for a long time, tell us about pancakes?
If we are talking about Russian yeast pancakes, then their cooking in Russia since ancient times has been a sacrament. They were put on Shrovetide pancakes on a new moon, water was taken from a well, and a woman always prepared pancakes.
In the Russian oven on large cast-iron pans, meat spirit was fried with pancakes.
And then they ate with different fillings — with sour cream, caviar, and salted fish. And pancakes in Russian cuisine mass — downy, Guryev, boyar, royal.
There are many nuances in the dough, in the flour on which they are prepared, there is a different ratio of flour and eggs.
Moreover, we must understand that then pancakes They did not bake from high-grade flour, but from the one that was at hand — buckwheat, half-bean, oatmeal, and rye. Flour second grade, coarse.
This is where the subtleties begin with a boil. After all, different flour gives a different rise: rye one, and the highest grade — another. Pancakes with buckwheat flour rise well, but brittle — because of low gluten.
And then the texture of pancakes is different — some melt in your mouth, and some must be chewed to understand the taste.
What flour do you recommend cooking pancakes now?
Now there is a special flour for pancakes, pancake. This is a ready-made mixture, in which the flour is premium and bran.
It is universal. However, my grandmother, in her eighties, always cooks pancakes from high-grade flour.
Flour for dough before kneading is necessary to sift, so that the texture becomes looser.
And what yeast to take?
Yeast for pancakes should be used not dry, but fresh pressed at the rate of 15-20 g per liter of liquid.
How to knead the brew?
Previously, for pancakes they took fresh well water.
Chlorine contained in tap water interferes with the growth of yeast.
Do not experiment with water, I advise you to knead the dough on milk of minimum fat. It should be heated slightly above room temperature, and it should be bred yeast.
Mix with a whisk. When the yeast and milk are mixed, it is necessary to knead the batter.
Add a little sugar and flour to the yeast began to work, mix put on the dough.
Eggs are added later: they interfere with the rise.
How long to withstand the brew?
Opara should rise forty minutes. Capacity must be covered with a towel. In no case can not cover the film.
When the sponge rises, add the rest of the ingredients.
In what proportion and sequence to knead the dough?
Per liter of milk, 3 eggs are taken, sugar and salt are added to taste, and flour — to the consistency of liquid sour cream. Eggs are divided into proteins and yolks. Whisk the yolks with sugar.
Squirrels are whipped separately to make pancakes lush.
Add flour and mix gently, allow the dough to stand for a while and rise.
And you can bake.
Is it right to dilute the dough with water or milk before frying?
Not. It is better to initially knead the dough correctly.
If you still want to add something — milk or cream, you need to let the dough stand so that the yeast starts working.
Otherwise — all the chances to get clever pancakes that will not rise.
And in order for the yeast to work, the temperature must be above room temperature: the dough, like brew, loves heat.
And how else can you make dough for pancakes?
Make a brew, let it go for 40 minutes, and when you come, put it in the fridge. Thus the rise of the dough is preserved.
Then the brew can be reached and added milk, pureed yolks and proteins, and the remaining flour.
Such opara can be reusable.
And if the pancakes on buckwheat flour?
There is not much gluten in buckwheat flour, so pancakes are fragile. And you need to add it a bit.
To take the very minimum or in proportion: one part buckwheat and two parts high-grade flour.
For example, my recipe. Take 2 cups buckwheat flour, 2 cups wheat flour, 4 cups milk, 3 eggs, 100 g cream, 1 tbsp. l sugar, 25-30 g yeast, 2 tbsp. l butter and salt.
Add buckwheat flour to the pan, add half of the warm milk, pre-mix the yeast in it. Stir and place in a warm place.
When the dough rises, stir it with a wooden spoon, and pour in the rest of the milk, add wheat flour, mix the dough well and put it again in a warm place.
Wait until it fits and add yolks, pounded with 2 tbsp. l melted butter, sugar, salt. Stir. Separately whip cream with proteins.
Gently add to the dough and, stirring gently, again put in a warm place for 15-20 minutes.
And start baking.
How to knead the dough for yeast-free pancakes?
Here everything is simpler: for 1 liter of milk, you need to take 5 large eggs, sugar and salt — to taste, add flour to the desired consistency.
Stir with a whisk.
Usually for fluffiness kefir or mineral water is added to such pancakes.
They can be cooked with whey, or with milk.
When there is sugar and flour, fermentation will still be.
This dough is also kneaded to the consistency of liquid sour cream.
Let stand for 20 minutes and can bake.
And how to get thin pancakes?
We need to add more eggs — take about six liters of milk.
And do not need a lot of flour, the dough should be liquid, then the pancakes will turn out thin.
Is it true that if you add vegetable oil to the pancake dough, it will not stick to the pan?
The fatter the dough, the better the pancakes lag behind when frying. It’s like meat, if you take a piece of meat with fat, it will fry nicely and will not stick, and the fillet is the opposite. And for pancakes, this principle works.
In the dough, you can add 2 tbsp. l vegetable oil per liter of fluid, no longer needed.
Some oil can be added to the pan when frying.
And fry, of course, in a well-heated frying pan.
And which pan to choose for pancakes?
If we talk about our ancestors, the pancakes were always cooked in a large cast-iron pan and roasted them in the oven. Before that, the pan was covered with salt and cooked so that the pancakes lagged well.
Therefore, it is correct to fry in a cast iron pan. It is better to take the frying pan thicker, it warms up more evenly and the dough is roasted on it, and not fired only from the outside, like on a teflon one.
Frying pan with anti-party coating is more suitable for crepes.
If pancakes break in the frying process, what’s wrong?
Or in the dough a little gluten — and then you need to add a little flour to it.
Or poorly warmed pan.
What fillings for pancakes are traditionally Russian?
Stuffings for Russian pancakes were more often with vegetables — those that were available in the winter. In pancakes wrapped beets, carrots, turnips, pumpkin. More stuffing added during frying — pancakes with sugar.
When the dough is poured onto the pan, it is put on it, the pancake is turned over and fried on the other side with the filling.
It is good to take baked apple, berries with pickled cranberries, fish — salted or smoked trout, salmon, sturgeon or beluga, and boiled eggs with green onions, fried mushrooms with onions.
What are the traditional pancake sauces?
Traditional sauces are the most different honey and berries. Most often lingonberries and cranberries, mashed with icing sugar.
Here’s another great sauce — Staroletsky: from sour cream and honey in equal proportions with powdered sugar.
European versions of sauces — maple syrup or orange juice, mixed with zest and Cointreau liquor, it should be flamed (set fire) and evaporate.
And kurnik cook on Maslenitsa appropriate?
Kurnik is a merchant’s layered wedding cake. And cook it on Shrovetide, rather, Slavic custom, rather than Christian.
However, for us, the holiday of Maslenitsa is a reason to eat delicious pancakes, including in the form of kurnik.
What pancakes to cook Kornik?
It is better to make yeast pancakes, but thin. And then cook the fillings — from chicken, mushrooms and rice. Break the boiled chicken into fibers, add butter and a little fresh parsley.
Fry mushrooms, add butter and greens.
Boil rice and mix with boiled egg, butter and greens.
Put a layer of pancakes on a cast-iron skillet, sandwich, alternate the fillings, cover with dough and bake in the oven — you will get a Russian puff pie.
If you cook Kornik on Maslenitsa, then it is advisable to do it without a chicken.
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