Azov — city with ancient history. There is something to see, where to go.
And most importantly — what to try. How to call the local cuisine — Russian, southern, Cossack?
I would call her Don. On the one hand, the kitchen exists at the expense of the local fish, gifts of gardens and gardens.
On the other — it mixed the traditions of various peoples living along the shores of the great Don.
Don-father and the Sea of Azov and today are fed fish and crayfish. The southern sun warms the fat, fertile black soil.
The earth pleases with sweet, meaty tomatoes, fragrant peppers and crispy cucumbers.
Water expanses of Azov
The city of Azov is so old that even the date of its foundation is lost over the centuries. Settlements of successive peoples and tribes existed here already about 2,000 years ago.
One can more or less accurately call one date — the year 1067, when it was captured by the Polovtsy.
It is from her that the official chronology of Azov, called Azak at that time, is conducted.
Going there, we read some documents of the times of Peter the Great, whose name is inextricably linked to the history of these places. «Arrange grape and watermelon as decent», — the king wrote to local governor Alexei Prozorovsky in 1713.
Indeed, the culinary life of Azov is inconceivable without these cultures.
Walk through its main gastronomic attractions.
In every city, wherever we come, we go to the local market.
And it would be a crime not to visit this place in Azov at the height of the summer harvest.
There really is a lot of impressive.
Fish collapse — for people and cats
But after looking, you can find products that are rare and even unfamiliar to Central Russia. This, for example, local beetroot (beet), without which local borscht is impossible.
As you can see, it is striped, with white veins.
Chioggia beetroot is the most popular variety of beet on the local market
Maybe that’s why it is customary to add a tomato to the soup for taste and color.
And also parsnip (white root), which gives characteristic dishes to many dishes.
It is customary to sour this beetroot on the Don, and to use it in this form for cooking borscht.
Of course, fragrant, unrefined. Here it is — the real smell of our southern cooking:
"Corporate" southern product — fragrant sunflower oil
And this is really curious — famous Don Syuzma. In fact, double-melted is milk and cottage cheese.
For us it was a gastronomic discovery. Of course, we tried Uzbek Syuzma.
But it is completely different — sour and in density like sour cream.
It is sometimes dried and sold in balls.
The famous Don Syuzma
Why two different dishes in different regions received the same name — a mystery.
By the way, Moscow also sells cottage cheese from baked milk, but it is completely different.
Here is his product, which is still being cooked in the oven.
Baked milk curd is traditionally cooked in the oven
Well, of course, fish counters.
Here they are local «Chebaki» (so called bream) — there is no tastier than dried fish.
He has his own recipe: it is salted “to the root”, and then soaked for three hours.
Silver carp in Azov is prepared according to a special recipe
The rest of the fish assortment is also beautiful — salted, smoked, dried fish …
The assortment of dried and salted fish on the market looks impressive
But gastronomic attractions are not only about “eating”, but also about “watching and listening”.
The village of Starocherkasskaya is known for its beautiful museum — the reconstructed estate of Ataman Efremov.
By the way, it is to him that we are obliged to the proverb “Prepare a wedding like at Malagnina”.
Ataman Stepan Efremov was married three times. The last time on a commoner — the beautiful Melanie, which he saw on the market where she was selling bagels. A beautiful, intelligent woman captivated the heart of the harsh chieftain.
The wedding was magnificent.
Tables stood on the street from the cathedral to the Peter and Paul Church in several rows. Feasted — according to some information for two weeks, for others — a month.
After this wedding, not only on the Don, but in all of Russia, a saying appeared: “They made a meal, poured it, like a Malagnina wedding«.
Ataman Stepan Efremov and his third wife Melanya
However, the fate of the newlyweds was not too happy. The chieftain himself, by order of Catherine II, was soon arrested on suspicion of rebellion and exiled to Pernov (Pärnu). With Melania, he will not see again.
She will survive it by 20 years. It will be buried here — behind the «house» of the Don Church.
The burial itself for two centuries was lost, and on the found tombstones there is not enough to read.
In the Efremov manor, the kitchen is still preserved, which contains a collection of old kitchen utensils. A person with a keen glance on only one room of the kitchen can determine the lifestyle and wealth of the family.
And for an ethnographer, a kitchen is a whole storehouse of information about a people and its traditions.
Kitchen accessories used by Don Cossacks more than 200 years ago
In the museum-estate of Ataman Efremov a separate building was built for the kitchen in the late 18th century.
The kitchen in the manor museum was built in the 18th century.
With any number of rooms in the Cossack Kuren, an independent room was definitely allocated where they cooked and ate food.
In the upper reaches of the Don, the kitchen was called “cooking”; in the village of Starocherkasskaya, it is customary to call it “room”.
In this room was a stove — a symbol of the home, she gave warmth, comfort and food.
In the Lower Don, Dutch ovens became widespread. They appeared at the beginning of the XVIII century. For the preparation of pastries and bread used trays and oven, built-in oven.
In the second half of the 19th century, grate bars and a blower appeared in such furnaces.
This trend is associated with the spread of a new type of fuel — coal, which can burn only on the grate.
On the Don, only wealthy families could afford to heat the house with wood and coal.
The rest of the furnace was heated with weeds, straw, reeds, dung.
For baking bread, pans and an oven embedded in a Dutch oven were used.
Cossack table is difficult to imagine without a fish.
Her range has always been the most diverse. Ate fish all year round, always in stock dried fish eaten with potatoes or kvass and onions in the post. Aged in a marinade with vinegar and roots, it was baked whole and used as a filling for pies.
But the most popular dish was ear.
There was a huge amount of her recipes. Even in the same village they cooked differently.
Thus, in Starocherkasskaya, they were necessarily cooked with tomato and greens in a cauldron on a fire.
Ear more than once will meet any tourist on the lower Don. But to appreciate its authentic taste, you need to go on nature.
Don’s Delta is a whole kingdom of quiet canals, thickets of reeds, birds and, of course, fish.
Take a ride on a boat, get out into the Sea of Azov and come back through another channel — it will take an hour or two to do about everything.
But it will be really immersion in another world.
Don’s Delta is a kingdom of quiet canals, thickets of reeds, birds and, of course, fish
It will take no more than two hours to go on a boat, go out to the Sea of Azov and return through another channel
After that, you can proceed to the ear.
It is prepared here in a special way — with apples and grated tomatoes.
Wuhu in local villages cook with apples and grated tomatoes
If you yourself do not cook with your hands, not scary.
Hospitable Azov will open the doors of local restaurants for you.
One of the best — «The fortress shaft», where visitors can expect not only delicious food, but also a real immersion in the gastronomic history of these places.
You can try the local cuisine in one of the restaurants of the city
In Azov, by all means visit:
The village of Starocherkasskaya, Aksai district of the Rostov region.
The village itself is famous for the Resurrection Military Cathedral (1719) — the first stone church in the lower reaches of the Don.
It was from here in 1637 that the Azov campaign began, when, taking the Turkish fortress of Azov, the Cossacks defended it for 4 years.
Azov Historical-Archaeological and Paleontological Museum-Reserve. Suddenly see such an extensive exhibition in the museum, located only in the district center of the Rostov region.
But, apparently, Azov is not a simple provincial city.
A witness of history spanning more than one thousand years. Who just was not here — the Scythians and Khazars, Sarmatians and Greeks, Turks and Cossacks …
Azov fortress. Visiting the walls of the famous Azov fortress is an urgent recommendation for any visitor to the city.
The fortress was built by the Turks in 1475. This is a powerful fortification in the historic center of Azov. For several years now, in mid-August, one can see a magnificent spectacle there — reconstruction of the «Siege Seating».
This is the heroic defense of Azov by the Don Cossacks in 1637-1642.
“The Cossacks defended themselves with desperate courage.
From the continuous shooting from siege weapons, the city, three walls, towers and a castle were razed to the ground. ”