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Cold soups — dovga

Cold soups are in many cuisines of the world.

Russian okroshka and botvina from kvass, Belarusian holodnik, Bulgarian tarator, Spanish gazpacho, Korean kuksi, Armenian rescued.

In the tiresome summer heat such dishes are the most optimal choice.

Okroshka they started to make kefir in Russian cuisine only at the beginning of the 20th century, but our Caucasian neighbors have soups based on fermented milk products hundreds of years.

Argue about their «birthright«- the last thing.

After all, there are many similarities in the Azerbaijani and Armenian cuisines.

And so, what is the difference between the Georgian matsoni and the Armenian matsun, very few people can tell even from the experts.

Of all these dishes, my favorite is Azerbaijani. dovga.

Only in order to bring greens from the market, wash, spread out and enjoy the summer aroma of cilantro, dill and mint, it is worth starting up its cooking!

What do you need:

  • 1.5 liters matsoni
  • small bunches of spinach and dill
  • medium bunch of cilantro
  • some green onion feathers
  • 7-8 sprigs of mint (use only leaves)
  • 200 g sour cream
  • 1 egg
  • 3 tbsp. l round grain rice
  • salt, pepper to taste

What to do:
Boil rice in salted water and cool. Wash and dry the greenery, cut the stalks.

Chop the spinach into thin strips, cut the rest of the greens.

Pour matsoni into the pan, add sour cream, egg and stir in a homogeneous mass.

Put on the fire (slightly above average) and continuously stir with a wooden spoon until visible boiling. It will take no more than 15 minutes. The most important thing is not to interrupt the stirring for a second, otherwise it will be curtailed, and instead of a homogeneous, creamy mass, you get an unsympathetic liquid with flakes.

There is even an opinion that you only need to interfere in one direction.

As soon as there is a slight turbulence, fill the rice, greens and, without ceasing to stir, boil another 3-4 minutes.

Add salt and pepper to taste.

It is best to cook the dovga the day before, cool it on the stove and put it in the fridge for the night.

If you cook the soup directly for dinner, then you can cool it to room temperature by placing the pot in cold water and then at least 3 hours in the fridge.

Dovgu cook and inwinter»Option, adding boiled chickpeas and lamb meatballs.

Eat hot, which is also very tasty.

Olga Syutkina:
“The kitchen of my love” was the name of my first book.

Since then, in addition to traditional gastronomy, my husband and I have taken up the history of Russian cuisine, have written a new book — “Uninvented history of Russian cuisine”. She is about the past of our gastronomy, about how it arose and developed.

About the people who created it.

Now comes the continuation of this work — already about the Soviet period.

Together with readers, we are trying to figure out whether the Soviet cuisine was a logical stage in the development of the great Russian cuisine or was an accidental zigzag of history.

Here I will try to tell you about how sometimes a wonderfully story comes to our today’s world, to our kitchens and tables.

Recipes Olga Syutkina:

Kharcho with green tkemali

The season of sour green plum tkemali sauce preparations is coming. Olga Syutkina offers to cook.

See below.

Gingerbread Pancakes

Let’s just say: real Russian pancakes were made from buckwheat flour and called red.

Milk was baked from wheat flour with milk with eggs added.

See below.

Holiday menu: fish rolls

Do you think that fish day is a Soviet invention? Not at all. Only two days in Lent are allowed to eat fish — on the Annunciation and Palm Sunday.

See below.


It is made from young beet leaves, spinach, sorrel, cucumbers and greens, and for its satiety they add noble white fish.

See below.

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