Bryansk Marbled Beef: First Steak House
Agroindustrial holding Miratorg He began to supply marble beef of his own production to steakhouses and shops.
Reviewer Gastronom.ru looked in Torro Grill, in order to verify for yourself the quality of this marble meat — and at the same time to understand the intricacies of its production.
Marble beef — meat with the thinnest fatty streaks. The production of such meat is possible with the observance of several requirements for growing bulls. First, they must be from a rock predisposed to marbling.
Secondly, gobies should move as little as possible.
Thirdly, they are kept for a certain time on grain fattening.
Grain open differs from grass in that animals are fed not only with herbs, but also with grain feeds. Up to 4-6 months, the calves remain with the cows, breast-fed. Then, older bulls and little girls are kept on pastures with perennial grasses and clean water for up to 12-15 months.
Having reached the age of one year and a weight of 350 kg, the animals go to the feedlot (feedlot), where for 120-150 days they significantly increase their weight thanks to grain feeds.
This is a period of enhanced nutrition, a cereal diet, rest, and minimal motor activity, during which layers of low-melting fat in muscle tissue are formed.
They give beef marbling, that is, a special tenderness and easily recognizable taste.
Marbling meat — This is a consequence of the natural properties of the body to accumulate fat between muscle fibers.
But this property is manifested only in captivity.
Animals that grow in free conditions almost never accumulate fat, that is, wild animals will never give marble meat because they are constantly in motion, they get their own food and do not get an excess of calories.
To the implementation of the project for the production of marble beef Miratorg started in 2009. Then from Europe to Bryansk and Kaliningrad regions bull-calves were introduced Aberdeen Angus, predisposed (if properly addressed) to marbling.
In addition to the actual livestock on pastures Miratorg American cowboys were brought in (now there are 15 of them who work for a lot of money), as well as American horses of special breeds bred for working with herds.
Aberdeen Angus — breed of the Scottish origin, the most popular in the world meat breed of cattle.
Aberdeen-Angus lends itself well to grain-fed; they are valued for their roundness, precociousness and meat quality, thin bones (only 15-18% of carcass weight).
In addition, the climatic conditions of the Bryansk and Kaliningrad regions allow year-round to keep bulls of this breed in free air (both when grazing on pasture and during the grain ostroma).
It is known that marble beef meets the highest requirements, it must undergo a process aging. After slaughter, cutting and cooling the half-carcass inside the muscle fibers must undergo complex enzymatic and biochemical reactions, resulting in softened muscle tissue, the meat becomes more tender, and its taste is rich.
The optimal period of meat ripening is 21 days for premium carcass parts (rib-eye, filet mignon, thin edge), and for some “alternative” cuts — 28 days.
Aging can be dry and wet. Process dry aging (dry aging) quite time consuming.
Untreated cuts are spotted in a special chamber at a temperature of about 1-3 ° C and a certain humidity.
The aging process is promoted by fungi formed on the surface of the meat and participating in the fermentation (the fungal layer is then, of course, cut off from the meat).
As a result, excess moisture evaporates from beef, meat loses much weight.
Wet aging (wet aging) allows you to get less expensive marble beef.
In wet maturing, blood drained and cooled to 0 ° C is packed in vacuum bags.
Aging takes place without contact with oxygen, so that moisture is preserved and the meat does not lose weight.
As explained by the chef Miratorg Dmitry Lazko, most of the marble beef, by default, passes wet aging.
Dry ripening of marbled beef at a company is applied only upon receipt of an appropriate order.
Another possibility is to sell raw meat to restaurants that endure the meat themselves (for example, a chain of steakhouse Goodman, which has two own cameras for dry aging of meat).
Today, 20% of marbled meat Miratorg goes to restaurants; 80% retail. Now this meat is presented in a special menu of the network. Torro Grill.
I tried five steaks of weak roasting (medium rare), four of which are in the permanent network menu.
Here it is necessary to clarify that the pieces of meat for steaks are divided into premium, that is, those that are sliced from the classic portions of the carcass for steaks, and alternative — that is, from less popular parts of the carcass. Of the alternative pieces with the proper skill of the cook, steaks can turn out to be no less remarkable than the classic ones. The use of alternative meat for cooking steaks is a tradition that comes from the New World: from the USA, Latin America, Australia.
As a rule, such steaks in restaurants are much cheaper than the classic ones.
Among the alternative offers — spatula steak, top blade (Top blade steak by American classification, Oyster blade steak — in Australian). This part of the shoulder blade (blade) Miratorg implements both shoulder shoulder cut.
Indeed, the spatula can not only be baked, but also quickly roasted — precisely because of marbling.
As explained by the chef Miratorg Dmitry Lazko, a spatula intended for steaks should, if possible, not mature for 21 days, as premium meat, but up to 28 days.
Unfortunately, in the current situation it is impossible to withstand meat for more than 21 days ( Miratorg it does not have the necessary permissions from the relevant authorities), but this problem is solved — and, possibly, will disappear in the near future.
Another alternative portion of beef carcass — bavet steak (Bavette steak, the same Flank steak), steak from fringes (flank), that is, the peritoneum; Miratorg realizes this part of the carcass like beef edging.
Bavet seemed a little tougher to me than the rest of the steaks, which, however, does not cancel my unconditional approval of this meat; The chief assured that the relative stiffness is associated solely with insufficient exposure — it would be good to give this cut 28 days to ripen.
I tried premium steaks ribeye — with a beautiful crust, «sealed» inside the meat juice; gentlest filet mignon, the most feminine of all steaks; and finally a boneless thin-edge steak (striploin), which in the West is commonly called Strip steak and New york steak, and in the menu Torro Grill have called Long Island.
This is a classic American steak, a wonderful compromise between the delicacy of tenderloin and the generous marbling of a thick edge, moderately juicy, moderately tender.
Separately, I want to mention the wonderful roast beef from Top side — “the inner part of the back cut without a bone” (it was cooked with truffle oil) — and tenderloin tartar: having decided to overcome the eternal Russian fear of raw meat, I tried it and did not regret it — I immediately remembered the tartare in Parisian bistros, there it was with pleasure even children eat.
I could responsibly state that Russian marble meat is quite competitive and can be compared with Argentine, Australian, Canadian.
Could, but I was ahead of a much more business man — the owner Torro Grill Anton Lyalin, who added that after about a month his restaurants completely abandoned the imperial marble meat and completely switched to Russian.