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Breakfast in Dushanbe

Breakfasts in Tajikistan are holiday and family. Holidays (tui) we are crowded and are always accompanied by abundant feasts. There are two reasons: firstly, Tajik families are always large; secondly, within one mahalla (the so-called special sectors, which are divided into cities and districts in Tajikistan), relations between people are more than just neighboring ones.

So for the holidays associated with the birth of children, circumcision, weddings, as well as the funeral is going to quite a lot of people.

All such events usually take place in two stages — in the morning and in the evening.

On the oshi Nahor (morning plov) special invitations are not required. It’s enough to know that in this or that family today tui.

On weekdays, such breakfast takes place from 7 to 9 in the morning, on weekends from 8 to 10. By tradition, tables are laid in the courtyard of the house (although nowadays this often happens in cafes or restaurants). On the tables put dried fruits and nuts, hot tortillas (tunuk or logira) and Kulchi (small sweet cakes, with a diameter of about 10-12 cm), halvoitar («Wet halva», which is made from flour, sugar and butter), sambus (meat pies, which are baked with pumpkin in winter, spring with various herbs) green tea and of course, pilaf.

It is served on large dishes (one dish for 2-3 people). It is clear that the food is very satisfying: I do not want to have dinner for a long time.

By the way, it is not customary to sit at festive breakfasts: some guests will soon make room for others.

For breakfast with family, no pilaf is served, but on the table there will be dried fruits, the nuts, halva, hot cakes, quite often sambus, kaymak and butter.

In addition, Tajiks prepare dishes such as shirbrinch (milk rice porridge with butter) and atola (thick soup or liquid porridge, a bit like bechamel sauce, made from flour, butter and milk, diluted by half with water).

By the way, in mountainous areas Of Tajikistan for breakfast drink shir-choi (black or green tea with milk, oil and salt).

I must say that green tea accompanies the Tajiks and the rest of the day.

Below are a few Tajik recipes for homemade breakfast.

4 servings

2 cups of flour
200 g lamb fat or butter
0.5 liters of milk
0.5 liters of water

Fry the flour with butter until light brown, diluted with a mixture of milk and water.

Boil a little, stir constantly, and serve.

Those who do not eat fat, can reduce the amount of oil or cook «porridge» in the water.

Such a dish is called “hordes”, which literally translates as “flour and water”.


600 g flour
1 glass of water
1 tsp salt
2 tbsp. l vegetable oil

Cook the dough. Roll out very thin cakes, with a diameter slightly smaller than the pan. On a well heated pan put one cake.

After one side is reddened, turn the cake. Well grease the ruddy side with oil or kaymakom and put on it a second flat cake. As soon as the bottom cake is fried, turn over two flat cakes already, grease again and put the next one on top.

Thus, in the pan, all the cakes are collected gradually, which are served hot in a pile.


800 g wheat flour
3 eggs
15 grams of salt

Prepare the dough, flavor it with ground cumin. Let it stand for 20-30 minutes.

Divide into pieces of 25-30 grams and roll each into a thin layer. Cook in salted water, gently remove the skimmer.

Cooked tortillas smeared with kaymakom, cream or thick sour cream and put in a stack in 4-5 layers. Decorate with whipped kaymak.

Serve with green tea.

Logir can also be sandwiched with browned onions or jam.

In this case, kaymak and cumin do not use.

Where can I have a good breakfast

Teahouse «Rohat» (Ave. Rudaki, 84) — perhaps the most favorite tourist institution in Dushanbe. People come here not only to eat, but also to plunge into the world of rich culture and history of Tajikistan.

To a large extent, this is facilitated by the interior of the teahouse (painted walls and ceilings, carved columns of wood), although the main thing here, of course, is local cuisine.

AT Rohate they serve fragrant pilaf, burning lagman, shurpa, lula kebab and, of course, kebabs (made from lamb, beef, chicken, fish). Good here and roll.

For its preparation, layers of mutton fat are wrapped in beef meat, cut and fried on skewers with tomatoes, onions and lemon. The pillow is traditionally served with shakarob (in the summer — sliced ​​tomatoes with onions and greens, in winter — sliced ​​thin straw radish, seasoned with salt) or kamlafur (hot pickled or fresh green pepper).

For breakfast you should order hot culci (yeast cakes baked in tandoor).

Breakfast in Rohate will cost you 70-100 rubles.

Marshaeva Larisa, Cook Manager in the residence of the American Ambassador in Dushanbe

О admin


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